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The crossbar-style hidden brackets attach to your Honda Odyssey's frame to provide attachment points for your tow bar. The visible portions of the brackets can be removed when you are not towing.
Features:
The square drawbars, or front arms, on the crossbar-style base plate kit are simple to mount and remove, easily securing with hitch pins. Once the drawbars have been removed, the remaining brackets are virtually invisible. On most automobiles, the brackets are mounted within the grille, where they remain not only unseen, but protected from scrapes and scuffs as well.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today in our 2010 Honda Odyssey, we're going to be installing the Roadmaster XL Base Plate kit, part number 1556-1. First, we've gone ahead and jacked up and removed the front wheels. Although this isn't necessary, it makes it easier to remove several of the fasteners for the lower splash guard. Next, we've gone ahead and raised the front hood. We're ready to go ahead and start removing some of the fasteners that will be necessary to remove the upper and lower fascia. Starting under the hood, we'll have 8 fasteners to remove the upper fascia.With the upper fascia loose, we can go ahead and remove it and set it aside for reinstallation later.
We can go ahead and get underneath. To remove the lower fascia and wheel well guards, approximately 20 fasteners will have to be removed. These are all pushpin fasteners of various shapes and sizes. You need to be mindful of which ones needed to go back where. With all our fasteners removed, we'll go ahead and remove the center guard and then pull back on wheel well guards to expose the screws up behind the front bumper fascia.
We can go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side.Next, we'll be ready to go ahead and remove the front fascia. To do this we'll simply pull out near the wheel well popping the fascia free on both sides. With the lower splash guard out of the way and the wheel well pulled back, we'll go ahead and lower the vehicle. We've got two more extended pushpin tabs to remove. Next, we need to go ahead and remove the air box in the driver's side.
To do this there are two fasteners that will need to be removed first. We'll go ahead and remove the fasteners and then pull down and out on the air box. We'll go ahead and set that aside for reinstallation later also.Next, we need to move them over to the passenger side and remove the windshield washer bottle. Before I do that however, I want to mark one set of lines so that I know which side it goes back into the windshield washer pump. Using a paint marker, I can go ahead and mark one side of the lines and the pump.
We can go ahead and remove the lines. At this time, it will cause any fluid in the washer bottle to leak out. With both lines removed and our tank drained, we can go ahead and remove the connector from the pump and into the 3 fasteners that are secured to the windshield bottle to the vehicle.We'll set the washer tank aside for reinstallation later. Next, we're going to go ahead and remove the bumper core. To do this, there are 3 fasteners on each side that need to be removed. We've got 2 underneath and one on top. This hardware and bumper core will not be reinstalled as it will be replaced by the new drawbar. We're ready to go ahead and take the long side brackets and install them inside the frame. With our 1/2 inch carriage bolt already in place for the bracket, we'll slide it back inside the frame until the carriage bolt drops through the frame and out the bottom.Then we'll get underneath the vehicle, we'll install a 1/2 inch block, 1/2 inch lock washer and a 1/2 inch nut to secure the bracket in place. We can go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side. Next, we'll use a 5/8 bolt, lock washer and fender washer that'll go through the side of the frame into our long side bracket. We can go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side. Next, we'll go ahead and bring our drawbar and put it into position up on top of the frame. We'll use new hardware to replace the manufacturer's hardware and secure the drawbar to the top for attachment points where we will remove the bumper cord earlier.Next, we'll take the 3/8 hardware provided which will be a bolt lock washer and nut and secure the drawbar to the side bracket we previously installed. There are a total of 8 attachment points to secure these two together for both sides. With all 8 of our fasteners securing the drawbar to the side braces, keep in mind that all of our hardware will be finger tight at this time. We need to install the lower brackets. To do this, remove the 4, 17-millimeter bolts securing the manufacturer's frame bracket to the cross member. We'll also loosen up where the brackets bolts to the frame through the body mount.This will allow us to install the new bracket. Our hardware will be the 5 spaces that goes between the bracket and the radiator support with a new bolt, lock washer and lock nut. Keep in mind everything we do here on the passenger side will get identically on the driver's side. Next, we'll go ahead and take the 1/2 inch, 7-inch bolts, run them up through the lower bracket into the drawbar. We'll secure the top of these bolts with a 1/2 inch lock washer and nut. Keep in mind, everything we do here on the passenger side will get repeated identically on the driver's side.With all our fasteners installed we can go ahead and tighten and torque the specifications as indicated in the instructions. We're ready to start reinstalling the washer bottle, the air box and all of our underbody trim panels. First, we'll start with reinstalling the air box. We'll just use the same mounting fasteners that we removed earlier to secure it. Next, we'll move over to installing the washer bottle. On the inner fender well attachment point, we're going to install a pipe spacer, a new bolt, flat washer and a lock washer. Next, we'll repeat the same process of using the pipe spacer for the lower attachment point near the wheel well.However it will need to be slightly relocated further out away from the engine compartment so we'll use the 2-inch self-tapping screw to secure it. The third attachment point up in the engine compartment will not be reused. With our washer bottle installed we can now go ahead and reinstall our washer lines. Keep in mind we color coded them so that they get reinstalled correctly. With that done, we can go ahead and reinstall the connector for the washer pump. Next, we're ready to go ahead and install the front fascia. However in order to completely install the front fascia, we'll need to cut out around the drawbar.To do this, we'll go ahead and set the front fascia in place, holding it with the two extended pushpin tabs that we removed earlier. We can go ahead and take our paint marker and mark out the area that will need to be cut. With the area marked out, we can now go ahead and take our rotary zip tool and cut out the lower part of our bumper fascia to allow for the drawbar to stick through. With that done, we can go ahead and start reinstalling the front bumper fascia. With the front bumper fascia reinstalled we can go ahead and start reinstalling the lower fascia on both the driver and the passenger side.Keep in mind, well be using the pushpins that we removed earlier. Next, we'll go ahead and reinstall the lower center fascia. However before we can do that, we'll go ahead and test fit it to see what needed to be cut out around the lower brackets for the drawbar. Once again, we'll use the rotary zip tool to make these cut outs. With that done, we can go ahead and install it using our pushpin fasteners. With that done, we've got one more piece of trim that need to be installed, the front fascia guard that goes in the engine compartment. Once again, we'll use the pushpin fasteners that we originally removed to secure it.Let's go ahead and insert our front arms and secure them with the hitch pin and clip. Lastly we'll show you how to attach the safety cable with the quick connect rings. We put the ring through the predrilled hole in our base plate and slide the cable into the ring and secure it. With that done that will complete the installation of our Roadmaster XL Base Plate kit, part number 1556-1 on our 2010 Honda Odyssey. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (988 Customer Reviews)
The crossbar-style hidden brackets attach to your vehicle's frame to provide attachment points for your tow bar. The visible portions of the brackets can be removed when you are not towing.
Great fit. Between the video and the printed instructions from road master I was able to install ot myself. Still working great.
I was pulling my truck using the roadmaster crossbar and to my surpass the towbar broke in half as I was towing. Good thing I was in town only going 20 miles poer hr.
etrailer service is and has always been stellar. My order was correct and was delivered very quickly. The only reason I made this a four instead of a five was that the rear bolt position of both base plate brackets where welded on crooked. Each small plate was at a different angle from each other. In my opinion whoever welded them wasn’t paying attention to quality control. Because I was on a time crunch for my departure on a trip and could not wait for replacements (and I needed the vehicle for local driving) I made the brackets work. Other than that the installation went smoothly and I was able to test tow my 2004 CRV a couple of times without incident.
Base Plate kit was complete and generally straight forward to install. Some instructions and dimensions were not explained in detail as they could have been. Especially the modifications made to the air dam were totally off. Most of the air dam is cut off to fit in front of the base plate. This was installed on a 2014 Chevy Captiva four cylinder car.
Very impressed that they're the exact fabbed fit, and easy to install! These tow base plates are super sturdy!
Item arrived earlier than predicted after viewing a very complete tracking system. The information was very clear and precise. Good job! I am 75 years of age and installed the baseplate myself. Only a couple of minor issues. One pin would not insert. Welding blob in the way. Filed it smooth and problem solved. The video was excellent but was a bit different in that it showed a different method o rear bolt installation, however the instructions on paper showed the correct way. Reinstalling the front clip had presented some difficulty. I suggest really watching the inner fender position relative to the front clip before removal. All said all went well. The finished look is great, (see pictures). Great product!
Quick and easy install. Did not need to drill any holes.
Installed this base on a 2003 Chevrolet Tracker ZR-2.
Highly recommend this towing base.
Item arrived very quickly. It appears to be of excellent quality. The salesman that helped me was very good and had very good knowledge of the product. The installation instructions were a bit vague, but I was able to figure them out. The price of the item was a bit higher than I was expecting.
Highly recommend E-Trailer for all of your towing accessories. Great product, great customer service!!
I've towed with it many times and Zero problems. I did find that moving the car slightly forward after stopping helps relax tension amd.make.disconnect much easier. Overall... I'd say SUPER..!!
Timely receipt and the installation was accomplished easily after watching the video.
Looks great installed. I think it will work perfectly for towing my F150 4x4. Took approximately 1 hrs. I removed the bumper, 4 bolts, and installed effortlessly. Nice appearance!
Just completed a 6600 mile rod trip, towing the Subaru behind a motor home.
Worked great.
This base plate was installed on a 2008 Kia Spectra. The bracket is strong and not really hard to work with HOWEVER,,,,,,,,,, I am used to the BlueOx base plate which is much easier to "hook up". Unfortunately, BlueOx did not make a base plate to fit my vehicle. That is not a big problem as I'm usually not in any hurry and it only takes maybe 5 minutes longer to "hook up".
The biggest problem with the RoadMaster base plate is that due to the way it is bolted to the frame, it only allows for a 6-inch ground clearance on the front of the vehicle. I have to be very careful with any "dips" in the road, especially on cross streets. Six inches may not sound like much but since the tires are several feet behind the base plate, it reduces that ground clearance greatly. It also will not clear the concrete "stop blocks" in front of many parking spaces.
If you are not very careful and keep this in mind, you may likely bend the frame of your car when you come to one of these sudden impacts. I haven't bent anything yet but it has certainly been shocking when it hits. Most of the time, the impact will cause the base plate to scrape and lift the car to the height to clear the obstacle.
I've attached a picture with a ruler in the view.
Good information and prompt shipping.
Base plate is solid and install and use instructions are excellent.
Be warned that product install is drill two holes and install 3 bolts, BUT the entire front panel has to be removed and replaced. Not difficult, but time-consuming.
Seat bracket is solid and install and use instructions are excellent.
Brakemaster kit is good quality, but instructions are not as good as most Roadmaster products. Instructions for air line install are especially weak.
It was easy to install, fit well and came with good instructions.
The baseplate and crossbar arrived one day earlier than expected. Directions were included which made the installation pretty easy.
I am happy with etrailers products and will buy from them again.
Everything looks good for us, but we have one more part that we are waiting on before we can install on the truck plus it's raining out here in Washington State. when it's time to put it all together we will take a picture and send it.
Great value, great fit, very easy and simple installation. Although I wish there were 2 choices for size of receiver. I had to buy an adapter for 2” receiver and it protrudes farther than I’d like. Great company and free shipping
Installed on a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport 2wd
Have towed over 10000 and not one issue. I did the install without one issue, picture perfect, I did use a online video to get a general idea of install otherwise I primarily used manufacturer's. . Be sure to use the recommended/ required locktite product.
Enjoy!!!
Needed these for my 4Runner. Had to do a bit of grinding on the frame rails to get em to fit. I suspect just different year manufacturing tolerances. All in all, pretty easy to install if you are even semi mechanically inclined. Havent towed it yet but got all the bits and pieces and to fit together just like it should. Easy to remove and good clearance underneath
The hardest part of the installation is getting the grill off and back on. Of the six preexisting holes all but one lined up the sixth hole was off about a half inch but the car had hit a deer a few years ago.
Very easy to install and works great
My husband and I were able to install the Roadmaster base plates on our 92 Jeep Cherokee in just a couple of hours. It went on pretty much the same as the demonstration video on the etrailer web site. The minor differences were addressed in the printed instructions that were included in our package. We haven't put it to the test yet as we still need to tackle wiring for the Roadmaster Even brake system that we purchased second hand. We will be towing our Jeep with our 93 Safari Trek. Customer service provided by Marty was excellent. I will provide pictures at a later date.
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