Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

by: Kevin 02/05/2024

Honda Accord

I ordered this trailer hitch for my Honda Accord so I could bring my bicycle to riding events. I installed the hitch myself in a couple hours.
I would recommend this item.1720395

This is more of a review of my install rather than the hitch performance. I just finished installing the hitch on my 2018 Honda Accord Sport 2.0T Manual transmission. It took me about 2 hours and I am fairly handy. I didn't suffer any injuries. I followed the instructions except where noted below.

The first step is lowering the exhaust by removing the rubber isolators. There are isolators behind each muffler (between muffler and rear of the car) as well as in front of the mufflers (in the gap between the rear tire and the wheel well). The final one is where the exhaust pipes come together further underneath the car. The two in the wheel wells and the one under the car are easier than the ones behind the mufflers. I don't have the removal pliers that probably make this super simple and Autozone doesn't have them for loan. I watched all sorts of youtube videos about using channel lock pliers, but that didn't work on this car due to the design of the isolators and the space you have to work with, specifically those behind the muffler. What worked for me was I sprayed the rubber and the metal hanger with Windex and put gloves on (make sure you do this - there are all sorts of sharp metal parts there) and just worked the rubber back and forth until it got far enough that I was able to just get it off. I couldn't do this on the hangers rear of the muffler until I did the other 3 first - those in the wheel wells and the one under the car. Those were pretty easy with the brute force technique of just pulling the rubber and then twisting it to get it over the edge of the hanger. the rears were tough and I found it easiest to sit right behind the muffler and push it straight forward. You have to get your one arm up in the cavity between the exhaust tip and the side of the bumper which is tight, but I was able to do it and it helped a lot to exert even pressure on both sides of the isolator. Eventually I got all 5 off. The exhaust still didn't drop since the hangers that are attached to the mufflers were caught on the exhaust tips, which are actually completely separate from the muffler. I had to push the exhaust to one side to get around the drivers exhaust tip, then repeat with the passenger side. No harm done. All in all this probably took my 45 minutes, including my failed attempt using channel lock pliers.

The instructions call for removing the passenger muffler. Not sure why. I didn't. In fact, on my car it's the driver's muffler that is attached with the flange nuts whereas the passengers muffler is welded. Either way I didn't do a thing and they really didn't get in the way that much. I did support the exhaust with a couple 2x4s and some cardboard so it wasn't just hanging there (since it's still attached in the front of the car).

The next step is modifying the heat shield. The rear screw in the heat shield comes out and stays out. There are only 3 more screws that hold each heat shield on, so I just took the heat shield out to drill the 1.25" hole. I used a hole saw and actually drilled a 1.5" hole now that I think about it. But the aluminum heat shield is really easy to get through and my hole was super clean and easy. The instructions say to go 5" back from the rear edge of the heat shield, but that's actually a little much. I think 4.75" would have been better, but since my hole was a little big it didn't impede me at all. I reinstalled the heat shield, leaving the rear screw out (so 3 screws holding it up). The instructions say that flattening the heat shield around the screw that was removed aids in installing the forward flange nuts. I didn't get that at first, but now I understand. Because the hitch is curved a little whereas the frame is straight, there's a little gap between the shield and the frame. Since the hitch mounting bolt to the front of the car is just long enough to come through the frame and accept the flange nut (so it doesn't interfere with the muffler once it's back in place) there are hardly any threads sticking out when you try to get the flange nut on. If you crush the heat shield a little then it allows the bolt to stick out a little more. I actually think if you crush the heat shield to conform to the frame rail all along the length of where the hitch will install, that would be best. I didn't do this and still succeeded, but at least I know why they say this now.

Step 3 is to lift the hitch into position and mark your holes to drill. Not sure why you have to do this. I was on my own and had a hard time trying to lift the hitch into position and hold it steady on both sides to mark the holes. I was afraid that if it was in position on one side but a little off on the other, it would skew where the hole was supposed to be. So I just measured the distance between holes on the hitch and then measured back from the existing hole in the frame (that was exposed when you created the hole in the heat shield) and marked the spot. It was 6.75" for me. I marked it, and drilled a pilot hole and then enlarged. Other than the rubber isolators this was the hardest part of the install, mostly because my drill bits were either not that sharp, or were quickly dulled. Please wear safety goggles when doing this. A lot of metal debris (hot metal debris) was raining down, burning my arm a tiny bit by tiny bit...which was no big deal...but I wouldn't want them in my eye. Especially some of the bigger bits. I ended up drilling a 1/8" hole first, then expanding to 1/4, then 3/8, then 1/2. I did this mostly since the tip of the 1/2 drill bit was dull, but the rest of it was okay. I also tried to use a step drill bit but that only worked a little. Pretty sure I ruined each of the bits...but I didn't have to make a trip to the hardware store for this install, so I'm happy. A couple notes here to make things easier for you - there is a bulkhead about 6-6.25" back from the center of the pre-existing frame hole. Stay away from this. If anything, err to the rear of the car from where you marked your hole to drill. The existing hole in the frame is oblong, so it gives a little cushion for error. If you're too close for the bulkhead, then there will be no horizontal frame for the spacer to sit on and you'll be screwed. I ended up with about 1/4" of frame which seems like enough but any closer and I'm not sure. Secondly, the instructions say to enlarge the hole to get the bolt and spacer in. They say this so casually that I didn't think it would be any big deal, but you actually have to enlarge the hole to the point where you can get the entire bolt in the hole and the bolt head is maybe an inch or more across. I was surprised I was able to do this without resorting to a lot of swearing and gnashing of teeth. I widened the hole by using my 1/2" bit and tilting it side to side while in the hole, as much as I could before the drill hit part of the car. This made it almost wide enough. I then took my step drill and worked it as much as possible, then the 1/2" drill forward and back. The bolt just fit and I had no more room under the car before the muffler, gas tank, exhaust tip or other parts got in the way. Reverse fishwiring the bolts and spacers was easy. I left the fishwire on all 4 bolts just to make sure I didn't lose them in the frame rail. It doesn't say in the instructions, but you have to use the short spacers (with one side shorter than the other) in the rear holes that you drilled - and the short side goes to the front of the car since the bulkhead that I described earlier will prevent any other orientation.

I fed the hanging end of the fishwire through the hitch holes so I could move it into position, pulled the bolts through and then very carefully removed the fishwires one at a time to put a flange nut on, being extra careful not to push the bolt back up into the frame. The bolts toward the front of the car were the hardest since they're only just long enough and since I didn't crush the heat shield earlier, I only had maybe 1 thread exposed. Still I was very careful and eventually the nut caught a thread.

I torqued with a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, just know that 70 ft lbs is pretty tight. My torque wrench is about 15" long and with one arm it was about all I could muster, given the cramped conditions and inability to get leverage to push off something with my feet.

Reinstall of the mufflers was easier than removal. Just move the mufflers back on the top of the exhaust tips in the reverse of removal, spray the isolators with windex again and slide them back on. I did the wheel wells first to help hold the exhaust in position, then underneath the car, and then the ones to the back of the mufflers. On one side I forgot to spray with windex and I couldn't get it, but after spraying I had it on in about 30 seconds.

One other note - after drilling, clean up all the metal shavings. I didn't because I was lazy and I ended up with so many embedded in my skin (not a big deal since they're large and can be brushed off) and in my shirt and shorts (which I started picking through and eventually gave up and will just toss the clothes since they're old anyway.

That's it. Overall if I knew what I was doing with the isolators and had better drill bits it would have taken me much less time and aggravation but on a new car this wasn't too terrible.540212

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by: Nancy 05/10/2024

Works great. No problem whatsoever! 2456014

by: Jon 05/03/2024

Fit perfectly, easy to install. 1778202

by: Ben 08/12/2023

Great service. Great product. No complaints. Would definitely recommend.1644718

Great product that fits nicely once installed. Unfortunately installation was very difficult and ultimately required assistance from a professional. The instructions do not detail the bracing wall within the frame between the prefab opening and drilled opening required. Using the fishwire to set the rear bolt and spacer in place through the existing slot is not possible. A hole much larger than 1/2 inch must be made. Attached is the camera image captured by the mechanic. 545151

Buying from etrailer was a very good place to buy from,the prices are good with free shipping. This is the 3rd hitch I bought here and recommend anyone to buy their products.467065

by: Dmitri06/10/2020

Everything good about this hitch, easy to install.811237

Lightning fast shipping! 1030723

by: Dunewood01/11/2024

1709408

1688064

1361644

1680906

1538487

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