If you were able to release the clip pin and turn the locking wheel all the way out to release the tension then the Thule EasyFold XT Bike Rack for 2 Electric Bikes - 1-1/4" and 2" Hitches - Frame Mount # TH903202 should be able to slide out of your hitch receiver fairly easily. It may take some wiggling and pulling as there could be some corrosion or build-up inside the receiver, but there shouldn't be anything on the bike rack preventing removal as long as the clip is released and the... view full answer...
Thank you for your purchase from etrailer of the Hayes Engage Trailer Brake Controller # HA81760. I looked at the instructions (linked below) and the SC means "short circuit" which "indicates a direct short to ground in the blue wire (output) circuit."
So you'll want to take a look at the blue brake wire and see if there is damage there. It could also mean your trailer or Dakota's 7-way is damage or corroded which often prevents signals from getting through, and if so you could replace... view full answer...
It sounds like you do have a ground problem. You might want to check where your lights are mounted. If they are bolted on there could be some corrosion between the mounting bracket and the trailer or the bracket and the light. If this is the case you will have to clean out any corrosion you find. We have a wire brush Battery Post and Terminal Cleaner - Wire Brush # DW00254 that could be used in the cleaning process.
There may be a ground loss if there is a plastic license plate bracket... view full answer...
This is symptomatic of having the red wire attached to the wrong circuit on the brake switch. Use your circuit tester to test the wires on the brake switch. You want the one that shows a signal only when the brake pedal is pressed. If it shows a signal when the running lights are on it is not the correct wire.
Once you are certain you have the correct wire attached to the brake controller red wire. Make sure to adjust the power output according to the instructions. If the power is set... view full answer...
If the green light is not lighting up on the Tekonsha Voyager Brake Activator # 39510 then either there is corrosion on the trailer plug contact or their is a problem on either the ground or power connection.
I would check the connector on the trailer plug for corrosion and clean as necessary and then also check the power and ground wires for shorts, corrosion, cut wires and fix as necessary. Most likely these wires will be run to the battery in your 2000 Dodge Dakota.
I attached installation... view full answer...
I suggest you check the main ground for both your recently-rewired trailer and your Dakota since a weak ground is among the more common causes for the issue you describe. Since headlights/running lights remain on continuously they draw more current than stop or turn lights that are on only briefly. This is why ground issues tend to show up most often on the vehicle or trailer running light circuit.
Make sure the main ground wires for both the trailer and truck are affixed to a clean bare... view full answer...
It sounds like the running lights are the issue as they are not functioning with your wishbone harness. I'm not sure what harness you have but a 4-way wishbone like # A25W2GWB will have two taillight wires, one for driver side stop/turn and the other for passenger side stop/turn.
If your lights are not working, in order to determine the specific problem you will need to purchase a circuit tester if you do not have one - the very handy Cordless Circuit Tester # PTW2979 would be my strong... view full answer...
The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver # 13230 is designed to fit a 2007 Dodge Dakota so everything should have lined up just fine. If the brackets didn't quite line up with the mounting points on your Dakota then they may have become flexed during shipment and you'll need to force them back to their original positions. This isn't uncommon and we actually have an FAQ about this that I'm linking to this answer page.
If there is a different reason as to why the hitch didn't fit please let me know... view full answer...
Usually when only one function is not working properly, there is either a grounding issue or an issue with the wire.
Since you've determined that the park lights work with other trucks, then you need to check the ground connection on your 2003 Dodge Dakota. Make sure the contact point for the ground wire (the white one), is a paint-free, corrosion-free location. There can't be any paint, rust, or anything else between the wire and the frame of the vehicle. Any obstruction there will cause... view full answer...
On the Transit LED Stop/Side Marker/Tail Light, # STL90RB, only the outer ring of LEDs and the center circle illuminate with the tail light function. The middle ring is a reflector, not a light (see photo). When the stop or turn signal is activated, only the outer ring should illuminate with a higher intensity, not the center circle, I made a short video for you showing how this light should function.
Based on your description, it sounds like your trailer has a 3-wire setup rather than... view full answer...
It sounds like you installed the red wire in the correct location, however the ABS brake light on your dash seems to contradict that. I recommend retesting the switch where you connected the red wire of your brake controller. There not only should be signal when you hit the brake, but there should be absolutely no other power when you use any other function of your vehicle. Check your blinkers, hazards, headlights, etc. Use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to confirm proper function.... view full answer...
You will first want to check the fuses on your 1994 Dodge Dakota since it is just the turn signals that are not working. Some vehicles have fuses for operating the turn signals when towing a trailer. You will want to check if they are installed and working properly.
If the fuses are all good then you will need to check the trailer connector on the vehicle and trailer for a ground connection issue, or a short on the tail light circuit on the trailer. Open them up and make sure there is... view full answer...
The reason the Curt Custom Vehicle Wiring Harness you purchased is blowing a running light fuse is there is a short somewhere on the running light circuit.
I recommend thoroughly checking the brown wire on the connector back to the connectors on your 2006 Dodge Dakota looking for any spots where the wire is showing that could short, or for any other damaged sections of wire.
Any damaged spots will need to be replaced by splicing in # 16-1-1.
I included a link to a helpful article on... view full answer...
First thing you should do at this point is test the 4-way of the wiring harness with a circuit tester part # PTW2993 for voltage on all of the right pins when the taillight signals are being applied. Just like in the video I attached.
If the voltage checks out there but the trailer lights still don't function right then the problem is on the trailer wiring. That would mean that problem is either due to a ground issue or a short issue.
Make sure that the trailer side connector are clean... view full answer...
For some vehicles the trailer wiring manufacturers will add in an additional ground wire which just adds additional grounding for all of the trailer wiring circuits. We've found that this isn't always needed but if the trailer has a lot of lights it does become helpful. If your truck brake lights and trailer stoplights are not working when the T-connector is installed that would indicate to me that there's a connection issue with the trailer wiring harness and not a ground issue. If it... view full answer...
If you have verified that the pin in the 5 o'clock position on your vehicle side 7-Way is receiving 12V of power when you use the manual override on the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 # 90195 then the issue would have to be on your trailer end.
Start off by checking the connector on your trailer (and might as well look at the one on your vehicle for that matter) being sure to clean out any debris or corrosion that you find. If that doesn't fix it or you don't have any then the next step is to make... view full answer...
I believe the Reese Brakeman Brake Controller you mention is the same controller as the Activator IV Brake Controller, part # 5504.
You will want to make sure your controller is wired correctly. If you take a look at the attached instructions for the # 5520, you will see that it states that you will have the dot displayed when the trailer is not connected. When you hook the trailer up you will see the digital displays.
Under the CONTROLS section it states that the Output setting is... view full answer...
The idle of a vehicle shouldn't change much at all with the installation of a throttle body spacer like the part # AR300-574 that you referenced. If your idle is off you may recheck the install to be sure there are no vacuum leaks around the throttle body/spacer as that may cause the vehicle to hunt for idle.
The cable configuration for the throttle body would remain the same as well. You shouldn't have to make any adjustments at all. view full answer...
The release valve leaking on your Air Lift Load Controller II Compressor System, # AL25592, is most likely related to adjustment of the Schrader valve that the button is installed on. The button is threaded onto a standard Schrader valve just like a cap is threaded onto the Schrader valve that is installed in the wheel of your truck for adding air to the tires. This leak can be fixed easily, and you will not need a new control panel.
You will need to use a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the... view full answer...
Helper springs like Timbren # TDDR00 are designed to help keep the truck level when carrying heavy loads in the vehicle. When sag is caused by a trailer the best solution is weight distribution otherwise you are putting extra stress on the trailer.
To choose a weight distribution system you will need to go by the total tongue weight of the set up. This is calculated by taking the tongue weight of the trailer, when loaded and ready to tow, and adding to that the weight of anything loaded... view full answer...
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