Using a 250ah battery like the Go Power Lithium RV Battery - Deep Cycle - LiFePO4 - Group 4D - 12V - 250 Amp Hour Item # 34282740 is a better option than two 100ah batteries or one 200ah battery. The parallel 100ah batteries will provide the same power as the 200ah battery and will most likely take up extra space and weigh more together and when adding more connections points you run a higher risk of connection issues. There would be a slight efficiency advantage to the single 200ah battery... view full answer...
The benefit of using 2 batteries rated for 6V along with 1 battery rated for 12V is that you are using less space (and less weight per battery when moving them) to get the same amount of power and amp hours that you would get if you were to use 3 batteries rated for 12V.
The typical amp/hour rating for a 6V battery is 200. When you connect these in series so that they are compatible with the 12V battery (and your trailer electrical needs) that means you have 2 batteries connected for... view full answer...
Traditional battery chargers provide voltage/amperage to a battery but they can overcharge and damage the battery. CTEK chargers such as # CTEK56830 provide power to the battery but will not overcharge it. They also recondition the battery so you get the most life out of it. So a CTEK charger is like your Mercedes and a regular charger is like a Yugo. This particular charger has 7 stages of charging (other chargers have one):
1) Desulfation stage is the initial charging phase. This stage... view full answer...
The only difference between the Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger # PD9160A and the Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Smart Battery Charger # PD9260C is the charging cycles. The # PD9160A only has one charging cycle at 13.4 amps, while the # PD9260C has a Charging Wizard with 4 charging cycles to help extend the life of your batteries.
The integrated Charge Wizard monitors your RV's batteries and automatically begins charging when needed.... view full answer...
The Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger - Lithium - 12V - 30 Amps Item # PD9130LV will charge 30amps per hour so it would take a little over three hours to charge your 100ahr battery.
The Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Battery Charger - Lithium - 12V - 60 Amps Item # PD9160ALV will charge 60amps per hour so it would take a little over and hour and a half to charge your 100ahr battery.
So the # PD9160ALV will charge twice as fast as... view full answer...
The main difference between the Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini AC/DC Panel and Converter/Smart Charger part # PD4060K and part # PD4060LIK is that the former model can charge both lithium and standard batteries such as lead acid/AGM/Etc. whereas the latter is only capable of charging lithium batteries. The former unit was just recently released with an updated lithium switch . view full answer...
The amp rating is really the only difference between the NOCO Genius Smart Battery Charger 5 Amp # 329-GENIUS5 and the 10 Amp # 329-GENIUS10. The 5 amp weighs in at 1.5 ls and works with batteries up to 120 amp-hours while the 10 amp weighs in at 3.3 lbs and works with batteries up to 230 amp-hours. So the 10 amp version is for a bigger application but that's it.
I don't know what battery you have in your Yamaha but you can use the specs I mentioned above as a guide. There should be an... view full answer...
The battery charger, the Charge Wizard, is actually the same for both the Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini AC/DC Panel and Converter/Smart Charger - 60 Amp # PD4060K and 45 Amp # PD4045KA.
So the charge rate is going to be equal for both, and there is no risk of overcharging the battery due to the Charge Wizard monitoring the battery charge and then maintaining it without overcharging it.
The difference is in the power output of the two, with the # PD4045KA outputting 45 amps and 610... view full answer...
Both the Tekonsha Breakaway Kit with Charger, # 20020, and the Tekonsha Breakaway Kit with Charger, Clamp On, # 2028, come with the same charger. The only difference is how each system mounts to the trailer.
Break away batteries require a special charger because they are smaller than a regular 12 volt battery. Trying to charge it just through the 12 volt circuit from a trailer connector can overcharge the battery. The charger prevents that from happening after the battery has been charged... view full answer...
In your case the better option is the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect for Towed Vehicles # RM-766 since you do not have to pull fuses in your Spark. In that other case the TowDaddy # TD704 would be the better option. The Roadmaster ABD # RM-766 eliminates the hassle of pulling your battery cable. To deliver a trickle charge to the battery via the tail light wire (when the RV lights are on) you can use # RM-156-25. view full answer...
The difference between the Curt # C56382 and the Tekonsha T-One # 118753 for your 2018 Honda Odyssey is that the Curt is for if the fuse locations actually have pins in them. The Tekonsha option is for if the fuse locations are lacking the pins to activate the tow wiring. The Tekonsha basically bypasses everything and pulls power straight from the battery via the black wire (which runs to your battery) while the Curt utilizes factory wiring on your vehicle. view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at CTEK and the CTEK D250S Dual Battery Charger 12V- 20a, 5 step, Heavy Duty CTEK40186 (discontinued) does utilize the Maximum Power Point Tracker (MPPT) as well. When partnered with the (discontinued) Smartpass CTEK56676 you will be able to run your fridge/freezer as you stated. The Redarc In-Vehicle BCDC Battery Charger # 331-BCDC1240D will also be able to accomplish this so it is a better option for this application. You will also need the fuse kit # 331-FK60... view full answer...
The difference between the two models that you were researching is that the # PD9160A is designed for use with lead acid batteries and the # PD9160ALV is designed for use with lithium batteries. Choosing the incorrect battery profile can lead to issues charging your batteries so it's important to pick the right one for your setup.
If you have lead acid and want to change to lithium later on without having to also replace the converter then you'll want to go with the # PD79RR instead since... view full answer...
The Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power RV Converter and Smart Battery Charger models, # PD9260C and # PD9160A have a rated power output of 810 watts and 60 amps. The # PD9260C uses the Charge Wizard multistage charging system. Using the built-in Charge Wizard, the converter charger automatically switches voltages while the battery bank charges. This accelerates the charge, but also helps extend battery life by adjusting the voltage during the different modes. This charger is compatible with... view full answer...
On a typical 7-way, the 12V power coming from that connection will give you a maintenance charge to your trailer battery of 2-4 amps. This is the additional amperage coming from your alternator that is not being used by your vehicle at the time. This normally will only allow your battery to charge to about 80 percent as well.
When you use a charger like the Redarc In-Vehicle BCDC Battery Charger # 331-BCDC1225D that power supply will be amplified to 25 amps and will provide you with... view full answer...
We recently added the NOCO product line to our existing range of battery chargers which has long included CTEK products like # CTEK56353. I have owned one of the CTEK chargers for almost 6 years and it has worked perfectly for me in continuous service, always being on either a motorcycle, lawn mower or car battery 100-percent of the time during those 6 years. Based on that performance I can only give it high marks.
The NOCO charger # GENIUS10 works with 6 or 12 volt batteries sized up... view full answer...
Hopkins Engager breakaway systems # 20099 and # 20400 function the same way and have the same features. The main difference is in how they mount. Engager # 20099 is meant to be mounted on top of the frame with the LED indicator and test button facing up. Engager # 20400 was meant to be mounted to the side of the trailer frame so that its LED indicator and test button are also facing up.
You will want to make sure the battery in the system you use is protected. That is why breakaway systems... view full answer...
There is not much of a difference, with the only difference being that the # HM11143185 you were looking at will pull power directly from the battery of your 2012 Honda Civic so you will not need to worry about damaging your factory wiring, but will require you to run that wire yourself.
I recommend going with the # HM11143175 if your Civic is a coupe, or # 118420 if your Civic is a sedan as these options do not require you to run the power wire to the battery meaning they will be quite... view full answer...
According to my contact at TST, going with the internal sensor would have the following benefits:
• Battery Life. The internal sensors can be expected to last 5+ years, versus about 1 to 1-1/2 years for the
external.
• Protection: By virtue of the fact that they're mounted internally, the sensors would be less exposed to the
elements and damage from road debris. The sensors would also be protected from theft or vandalism.
About the only downside to the internal sensors is that the... view full answer...