Since your 2020 Acura RDX did not come with trailer wiring you are going to need the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118804. Then you will be able to connect and pull your trailer with a Ball Mount # DT49MR.
For your utility trailer if you are looking to install new Tail Lights # M844 & # M844L you might consider changing the Wiring # A25W2GWB harness as well if it is damaged. We also have the Fender Light # MCL180ARB if your trailer uses these style lights. view full answer...
This is a great question Matt, so the reason trailer wiring kits like the # 118754 connect to the vehicle battery directly to draw power is to protect the wiring of the vehicle. Trailer wiring shorts can end up creating shorts on the vehicle wiring which can damage the circuits. By drawing the power directly from the battery this prevents that from happening. view full answer...
Hello Derek. The included black power lead wire that comes with item # C56331 is 12-gauge wire. They are intended to be used with a 10 amp fuse only and we do not recommend that you exceed this rating.
If the 10 amp fuses continue to blow it could be the result of a short. Please inspect the trailer wiring and vehicle wiring for any damaged, frayed or exposed wire that could be causing a short. Also please make sure the black wire is connected directly to the positive battery terminal,... view full answer...
Hey Shawn, unfortunately what you are describing is a damaged converter box of your trailer wiring kit which only solution for is replacing the whole thing. The converter boxes are designed to fail if there is a trailer wiring short and in doing so prevent the short from getting to the tow vehicle's wiring. For a replacement the Curt # C59496 would be a great solution. view full answer...
You would simply use the 7-Way Round RV Style Trailer Connector # A7WCB to change your boat trailer from the 4-Way Flat # 18172. The 7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector # H20043 you found would also work but it contains wires you do not need as you will still only connect your 7 wires to the 4 pins for the ground, running lights, and left/right turn signals/brake lights. view full answer...
If the issue is on the vehicle side of your 1999 Izuzu Trooper this will likely mean the converter module which combines the wiring itself is damaged and needs replaced. We do have the Curt 4-Way # C55339 which plugs into a factory connector and only has a single brake light input. This tells me the internal portion of the module is failing to sent power to the right brake light if your right turn signal and left brake lights are functioning correctly as you said.
You can always use a... view full answer...
Okay Scott, the first step you are going to want to take is to verify you are getting power to the trailer connector on the back of your vehicle. A Test Light # PTW2993 will allow you to check the wiring to verify if you have power. If you do not have power at the trailer connector on your vehicle then you will want to check your fuses if you have a factory towing kit. If you have an aftermarket wiring kit or the fuses are good on the factory tow package you will want to check the wiring... view full answer...
The Peterson Piranha LED Clearance or Side Marker Trailer Light # 169A does have a little bit of space in the back where you could fold in some excess wire. Just be careful if you're folding down the wire from the light near the circuit board so you don't damage anything.
That style of insulation can also be trimmed, so if you're having trouble you could shave it down a little to get everything to fit if need be. Also, there is no gasket for this light. It will be mounted directly to... view full answer...
If you haven't already I would double check the wires running from your P2 # 90885 just to make sure everything is secure and functioning properly. You could also check the connection at the rear of your vehicle. If all of that checks out then the brake wiring in the axle could be related, or it could be damage elsewhere on that same wire.
The simplest solution would be to replace it all with # 10-1-1. There isn't a special wire made for this, just your standard trailer brake output wire.... view full answer...
Hey Isaac! While we don't have one specific all in one kit we do have every component you will need to update your trailer's lighting and brakes.
I recommend using the Trailer Wiring Kit item # ET7WK. This includes a 7-Way connector, a junction box to provide you with a organized and weather proof storage area for all your wiring connections, and all the necessary hardware.
You will then just need additional 16 gauge wiring item # 16-4B-1 for the light circuits and 10 gauge wiring item... view full answer...
Hey Jerry,
If your breakaway kit isn't hooked up properly I suppose it could give that "trailer disconnected" code on your brake controller, but it would have to be that the wiring going to your brakes is disconnected on the circuit somewhere for that to happen.
I think you have some damaged wiring or a bad connection somewhere that needs to be fixed - this could even be where your trailer 7-Way plugs into your vehicle 7-Way socket.
I'm attaching a wiring diagram that can be used for... view full answer...
Yes, you can! The Pollak Replacement 7-Pole, RV-Style Trailer Connector Socket for Dodge/Chrysler item # PK11893-11933 is the correct replacement for your PA66MD40 connector. view full answer...
Hey Jaret, most likely all of the lights that aren't working are carried by a single wire that runs to the back of the trailer so that would indicate to me that the problem is that wire is damaged somewhere between the connector and the lights. So you'd need to trace this circuit to find and fix the problem. view full answer...
Since the Reese 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch 30051 fits into industry standard rails which is the same pattern Curt uses for their rail kits you are able to use them Andre. For your 2015 Ford F-150 you would need the Fifth Wheel Installation Kit # C38ZV which includes the above bed rails and custom fit below bed mounting brackets.
The Hopkins Wiring # 41157 will allow you to tee into the bumper 7-way and add another 7-way connector in your bed. This protects both the trailer wiring and bumper... view full answer...
Hey Henry, it looks to me like a standard 5 pole harness so you can use the 25 Ft 5-Way Trailer Wiring Harness - Wishbone Style # A25W5B as a replacement. view full answer...
Hey Liuwer, yes you can use the Advent Air RV Air Conditioner # ACM150 to replace your current AC on your 2008 Fleetwood Regal.
This unit can be paired with a Coleman Mach or Carrier setup using the wiring adapter # ACCOLKIT or # ACCARKIT, so if you already have either of those in your trailer using one of these adapters will let you use your existing equipment. view full answer...
The Thermostat # FR33PR is not controlled by an app. And with the issues you are having with your furnace it makes me wonder if either a wire has become disconnected/damaged to your Thermostat # FR93PR or the control box in your air distribution box. The thermostat wires lead up to the control box and there is where the wiring for the furnace ties into the system. If the furnace has never worked it could also be a case of the manufacturer didn't flip the correct switches inside the control... view full answer...
Unfortunately Kurt, Curt does not offer a replacement module for the 4-Way # C55567. I have found the Tekonsha # 118405 option to be more reliable and have less issues over time. So you might consider it when you have to replace the damaged module. view full answer...
Hey Scott, I recommend going with the Progressive Dynamics 4000 Series Mini RV Converter w/ Charge Wizard and AC/DC Distribution Panel # PD4045KA for a replacement.
This will work with lithium-ion, flooded lead acid, AGM, and gel batteries, will provide a higher charge rate to your battery bank, and since you're replacing the Elixir model EXL-45 all of your wiring is rated for this unit. view full answer...
Hey Dennis, it sounds like a bad motor which is drawing too much and causing the "brown out" you described or there happens to be a short on the wiring of the motor to the frame which is creating the draw. I would first go over the wiring to the motor to see if you can find and fix any obvious shorts. If there's nothing there it would be time for a replacement motor. I don't know what model of stabilizer jacks you have though so it's hard for me to say what replacement motor you would need... view full answer...
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