I'm sorry to hear about the clearance you are experiencing while towing with your 2019 Ford F-450. While I can see where you would think that the B&W Companion # BWRVK3300 could be the problem, there some other things that you can do to help make sure that you get the proper clearance of your 5th wheel over your bed rails.
In addition to the various height settings of the Companion you can also adjust the height of your pin box on your trailer with the different adjustment holes. If your... view full answer...
Ohms is a measurement of resistance. And fuses aren't designed to put any resistance on a circuit when they are functioning properly. So if you ohmed out a fuse you should get basically zero ohms. Resistors on the other hand are designed to put a specific amount of resistance on a circuit for various reasons. view full answer...
The Jeep requires the diodes integrated in its wiring to allow the brake light and turn signals to show exactly as they would if you were driving the Jeep. It sounds like you have the turn signal and not the brakes or the brakes and not the turn signal...and you should have both. I recommend checking out the Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit for Towed Vehicles # RM-88400 which keeps your towed car's brake signal from overriding the turn signal sent by your RV and allows signal lights on towed... view full answer...
I checked with the manufacturer for you, and they say that the Solera Awnings are slower when they retract. If you are sure there are 12 volts by testing with a multimeter the next thing to do is ensure the pitch arms aren't bent at all, which can cause issues.
After that, they said to take a look at the ground wire before the switch, and make sure that has a good connection. Also make sure the switch is not damaged in any way, and if it needs replacing you can do that with the Solera... view full answer...
If you have no power to the taillight pin with the T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118288 then the issue is almost certainly that you have a blown fuse on your 2019 Honda Ridgeline.
What you will need to do is check you owner's manual to find the fuse and replace it, which should remedy the issue. The only other thing that might be happening is a wire leading to that pin is somehow damaged, so that would be the other thing to look for.
I have added links to a couple trailer wiring... view full answer...
It sounds like a converter box issue on your setup. Can you test for voltage feeding into the box and coming out of the box? I'd be willing to bet you'll find it's going into the box fine but not coming out which means it has an internal short and would need to be replaced.
We've found that the most reliable trailer wiring brand is Tekonsha so I would recommend replacing what you have with the part # 118304. view full answer...
You should be seeing the same "Service Power Steering" and ABS warning lights/All Wheel Drive as you've seen in the video. Since you have a 4 cylinder model of the 2012 Equinox, I would make sure that you've left the DLIS Fuse 32 in place and that you've removed fuse 16 (not fuse 15) under the hood when using the Roadmaster # RM-76517; according to one of the GM technical service bulletins, only the 2010 Equinox should have fuse 15 removed when installing the RM-76517.
If you've performed... view full answer...
I went out into our warehouse and measured a Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver # C13340 and found the distance from the bolt hole center to bolt hole center was 36-1/2 inches. Check out the picture I attached to see this measurement.
If you measured from the inside of the bolt hole to the inside of the other bolt hole and came up with 36 inches you should still be fine since the bolt holes are slotted for extra flexibility when installing this hitch.
Sometimes hitches can get slightly bent... view full answer...
The representative at Hopkins informed me that the E1 message will appear when you activate the brakes on your vehicle and there is not a trailer connected. When the trailer is connected, and you activate the brakes, you should not get an E1 error code.
The wires of the brake controller should be connected the following way:
Blue - Brake Control Output
Black - 12 volt power
White - Ground
Red - Connected to stoplight switch, wire that only has power when brake pedal pressed
I have linked... view full answer...
It sounds like the problem is in the way the your right turn/brake light is grounded. You said that there is power to the fixture which would mean that either the fixture/bulb is faulty or the ground is bad.
Try finding a grounding point that is closer to the fixture and attach it there. Any paint-free metal surface that is clean should work well, you might try taking some sandpaper to the area to really clean it up and allow for the best possible contact.
It sounds like you already... view full answer...
I would start by unplugging the controller and then plugging it back in to reset it. Then go through and setup the brake controller again as indicated in the instructions.
There should only be a minimal amount of volts at the trailer connector when the brakes are not activated
If the problem still persists, you could cut the blue wire a few inches from the back of the controller. Then, using a circuit tester, check to see how many volts are coming from the back of the controller. You... view full answer...
If you have already checked the 5-Way on the truck and it is working properly, then you have narrowed the problem down to the trailer.
Typically grounds are the source of most trailer light problems, but since you have the other functions, ground issues are less likely.
Check the connector on the trailer for corrosion. If they are dirty or corroded, clean the contacts with a wire brush and some electrical contact cleaner. Re-apply dielectric grease like part # 11755 to keep moisture out... view full answer...
You might have a weak ground problem that is causing the brake lights not to work.
The three areas where you will want to check to make sure you are getting a good ground is the ground wire from the converter in the wiring harness, the ground wire of the connector on the trailer and the trailer lights are grounded to the trailer.
First, you will want to check the white wire on your wiring harness that is coming out of the converter. You want to make sure it is attached to a good, clean... view full answer...
For your Self-Locking, Adjustable 2-Ball Mount w Chrome Balls - 2" Hitch - 6" Drop, 7" Rise # DTALBM6600 or similar, you started with the right idea. Penetrating oil is your best bed to loosen corrosion and grime. If the lock doesn't free up your best bet is to use the Re-Keying Kit for DTLBM and DTALBM Series Self-Locking Aluminum Ball Mounts - 2 Locks # DTLBM02RK. view full answer...
That area where the fan is and buzzing sound you referenced is your power converter. That is what converts the 120v AC shore power into the 12v DC power for your lights, fans, etc., and charges/maintains your battery.
To replace that converter with a compatible upgrade unit, you will need to get some more information off the unit. There should be a brand and model number as all are not created equal. If you want to replace the unit with a Go Power RV Converter and Smart Battery Charger... view full answer...
The 7-Way Vehicle Power Adapter Cable for Furrion RV Observation Camera part # FR87PR is an adapter created by Furrion for the Furrion Vision S Wireless RV Backup Camera like part # FOS43TASF to help with applications where there isn't sufficient power being sent to the trailer connector which sounds like the issue present. The most common vehicles we see this adapter needed are the late model GM trucks but there are others as well.
For a more permanent solution I recommend splicing in... view full answer...
If you are using the part you referenced, Hopkins OEM Style 7-Way and 4-Way Trailer Connectors for Ford # 30955, and the 4-way works but the 7-way does not, the first thing to check is that the round connector that plugs into the back of the 7-way is fully seated and that the locking tabs are engaged. Since the 4-pole has lighting signals we know the vehicle wiring is sending the appropriate signal to the round U.S. car connector that plugs in to the OEM harness. This makes the plug-in... view full answer...
Thank you for providing the photo of the left-hand brake assembly on your boat trailer. The bolt that attaches your actual brake shoe to the shoe lever arm should be tight, but we do not have an actual torque specification. It is intended that the bolt provide a pivot point for movement between those two parts.
After examining your photo and comparing it to all of the free-backing 12 x 2 brake assemblies we offer I noticed that one of the springs on your brake appears to be in an incorrect... view full answer...
As a first step, I would recommend doing a standard bench test. Use a circuit tester like part # PTW2992 and test the wiring exiting the rear of the controller. The blue wire should show current both when the override switch is activated and when the brake pedal is pressed. The red wire should show current only when the brake pedal is pressed.
When you let off the brake, you should not see any residual voltage on that blue wire. If you do, it could indicate a wiring problem between the... view full answer...
What you are experiencing are the classic symptoms of a ground problem. Make sure that the ground wire coming off of the trailer connector is securely attached to the trailer frame. Also make sure that the connection itself or the metal it is connected to is not corroded.
Typically trailer light fixtures pick up their ground connection by their physical connection to the trailer. Make sure that these connection points are in good shape, as well.
If your trailer has a tilt bed, the weak... view full answer...
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