The photo did not come through but are you sure that the pins inside the old connector matches the socket inside the new light? They could look very well the same and even plug into one another but that doesn't mean they are wired the same. I would find the pin inside the light that is supposed to receive power and then check to see if it is in fact receiving power using a circuit tester. There could also be a ground mixup. For example, the new light may ground though the hardware and the... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Lippert and this is what they sent me about the external sensor issue you have:
External sensor error means there is an issue with the rear leveling sensor. This will be located 2-3 foot behind the rearmost axle. There may be an access panel in the underbelly, or there may not. Typically this error is due to a bad connection to the sensor or the sensor itself is bad. I attached a picture of what the sensor looks like in the second picture. The first picture is... view full answer...
The first thing you are going to want to do is to take a bottle of soapy water and spray down all of the lines, fittings, and airbags while the system is inflated. There should be bubbles forming where the air is escaping. If air is escaping out of the fitting on top of the airbags then you are going to want to remove it. Once it is removed you would then want to recut the end of the airline with a tubing cutter like part # AL10530. Once this is down you can put some thread sealer like... view full answer...
The Buyers Products LED Light Strip - Cool White Light - 72 Diodes - 48" Long # 3375624973 is made for a 12V power connection. Your motorhome uses the 120V system so to make it compatible, you would need to use the NOCO Genius Mini On-Board Battery Charger - AC to DC - 1-Bank - 4 Amp # 329-GENIUS5 to convert the 120V to 12V power for compatibility. view full answer...
A battery not holding the correct charge would not cause tail lights to flash. If you are experiencing hyperflashing on your trailer tail lights, you most likely have LED lights that are not pulling enough power from the vehicle. To remedy this I recommend using an adapter like the Trailer Connector Adapter w/ Lamp-Out Sensor Bypass - 7-Way RV to 7-Way RV - Vehicle End # 20142. This will draw power like an incandescent bulb to prevent the LED hyperflashing issue.
If the lights are flashing... view full answer...
This sounds like a power draw issue. The 12 volt circuit on your 7-way is only designed to provide a certain amount of amps which will vary depending on the vehicle but it is usually around 20-40. If the power draw of your off road lights exceeds this then that is what would cause them to cut out. It may be best for you to just run the off road lights directly to the battery with a quick disconnect in between the trailer and tow vehicle. For quick disconnects I recommend part # PK11852... view full answer...
The Prodigy RF Wireless Trailer Brake Controller # TK94FR does require that +12V power to operate it be present at the appropriate contact pin on the vehicle's 7-way. This is the pin at the 1:00 position as you look at the socket. Please refer to the arrow in the linked photo.
You'll just need a simple probe circuit tester like # PTW2992, or the special type # C73NR to confirm that +12V power is present on that contact. Ground the tester to the vehicle and apply the probe to the pin at... view full answer...
Since you hooked up your trailer to your Explorer and the lights all worked but the trailer's brake and running lights are not working when hooked up to your 2014 Ram 1500 we can pinpoint the issue to your Ram's wiring.
Start by using a circuit tester such as # PTW2979 to test the connector on your Ram after disconnecting it from your trailer. Check the wiring going into your harness from your tail lights to see if those wires are carrying the correct signals, if not then check that wiring... view full answer...
There are a few different types of roof vent covers and the type of hinge they have is going to dictate how they are removed/installed and the tools required to do so. If your Haulmark trailer has a roof vent with a continuous hinge then you will most likely need a screwdriver to remove the screen/support arm and then a pair of pliers to slide the hinge out of the track.
I have attached an install video on a roof vent with a continuous hinge for you. If you can let me know what type of... view full answer...
Even though the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 # 90885 may not be activated through the foot pedal or override switch it does send a small amount of power back to the 7-Way to check for a trailer connection. If you are seeing a little bit of power on the pin in the 5 o'clock position on your 7-Way then that is normal, but if that is also being displayed on your P2 screen then something internall is going on with your controller and you need to replace it. view full answer...
The battery in a standard breakaway kit like the Hopkins Engager Push-To-Test Trailer Breakaway Kit # 20099 is designed to lock up the trailer brakes for 15 minutes once the pin is pulled. The only way that the battery would still be able to power your trailer brakes when you disconnect it is if you disconnected it from the end that it receives power and not from the end that would be sending the power to your brakes.
It is definitely possible for the battery to get messed up but if you... view full answer...
I pulled up the online version of the owner's manual for your Chrysler Sebring and it states that battery power is required to release the brake/transaxle interlock system. In case of loss of power there is an override system that allows you to shift out of PARK.
To activate the override firmly apply the parking brake, then insert the ignition key and rotate it to the ON position. Remove the cup holder liner and insert a key or screwdriver into the front hole then push and hold the manual... view full answer...
It sounds like you've done a great job of reducing your tire blowout risks already so I would say this likely has more to do with the age or condition of that specific ST18580R13 tire. A weight distribution system like the Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control # EQ37040ET should not shift excessive weight to your rear tires if it's an appropriate system for your tow setup. If it's a much higher capacity than necessary then you may be on to something there as that... view full answer...
If the fuses are good and there's no corrosion or damage to the connectors, then there has to be either a problem with the wires themselves or the ground. I would start by checking and possibly reconnecting the ground just to make sure since it's fairly easy to do. I would also make sure the issue is on the truck side by testing the connectors with a circuit tester like # PTW2993 if you haven't already.
If you've already done this and it's definitely on the truck side and you're still... view full answer...
An often seen cause for the trailer brake controller to display a disconnect error message is a damaged or corroded connector on the trailer. This may have occurred during it's time at the shop or just didn't show up as a issue until after this work was done.
Other common causes for this error message are a bad connection at the electric brake assemblies or a short on one of the magnets. There could also be damage or a short on the wire that carries the brake circuit. I recommend re-checking... view full answer...
This is extremely odd and while you're not the first person I've seen with this issue, your Tekonsha P3 # 90195 won't connect to anything that will cause the check engine light on your 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 to turn on since it should only be connected to a 12v power supply and the stop light switch. Since this goes away when you unplug it, I would check to make sure that you've got it plugged into the correct spot. There is a dummy plug that is connected where you want to plug into... view full answer...
Your 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6, the towing capacity is greater than that, however you still need to use caution. Your owners manual suggests not using ACC at all during towing. It also states that you should follow the gauges which may be more sensitive to heat when towing to remain safe. It could be that your thermostat is misreading, but it is very likely you need to add a cooling system which is normally included with a towing package. Adding coolers will only help your vehicle... view full answer...
This is likely just a simple grounding issue because when trailer lighting does not have a sufficient ground many different scenarios can show up- the most common is when the most amperage is applied, like tail lights on and brake pedal pressed, the lights go out. I recommend that you start by checking the ground on both the vehicle's wiring harness and the trailer's. Make sure that they are firmly connected to a paint, debris and rust free surface on the vehicle and the trailer's frame.... view full answer...
The issue is the wire you ran the red wire of the P3 part # 90195 to. We've heard from Tekonsha that a 1 amp diode needs to install on this circuit to prevent the controller from backfeeding onto the vehicle wiring. Or you can use the part # RM-690 from us. The "IN" side would point towards the vehicle.
I attached an install video of a brake controller to this page on a 2018 Highlander for you to check out as well. view full answer...
To test trailer brake magnets with the trailer connected to the vehicle, you will need a multimeter like # PT89ZR that reads amps and ohms. First you will connect the ammeter inline with the blue wire exiting the back of the brake controller to check the amperage. If the amperage is greater than the specified amount of 7.5-8.2 amps at 12-13 volts for 2 brakes (15.0-16.3 for 4 brakes--tandem axle), replace the magnet or magnets. If the reading is less than the specified amount, the leads... view full answer...
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