Vision X Duralux Floodlight - LED - 20 Watts - 60 Degree Beam - 4" Square - Qty 1

Video Transcript for Vision X Duralux Floodlight Installation - 2000 Nissan Xterra

Today on our 2000 Nissan Xterra we're going to be installing the Vision X Duralux floodlights. These are a LED-based light offering 20 watts of power and a 60-degree beam. They're 4" square. They're sold individually as part number DURA-460. Let's take a look at the difference in lighting that we've got. Standard headlights are going to give us an intensity of about there. When we turn on our bright lights you'll see definitely a little bit brighter.

Once we turn on the Vision X lights we can really see a difference. As you can see here in the rear, it's channeled. That's going to allow heat to dissipate quickly and keeping weight down. It has a durable water-resistant construction. It's a black powder coat finish on an aluminum housing. The attachment hardware itself is a 304 high tensile stainless steel so we're not going to have a lot of corrosion to deal with and it's also going to withstand any kind of vibrations we might be able to put these through.

As you can see here, the lens, it's an impact-resistant polycarbonate and it's got a nice scratch-resistant finish on it so it's going to stay looking good and operating good for a long time. Now as you can see here, we've got two of the Dura 460s out. We're going to be installing these both on the front of our Xterra here. What you'll see here is what you're going to get with your kit. You'll have your two lights. You're going to have your wiring pigtail.

Then for each one they also send you an Allen key show you can adjust the light and get the exact angle that you're looking for. As far as our wiring goes the red tie needs to go to our power source whether it's a direct power source that comes on when the key's turned on or a power source that comes from a switch. Today we'll be using a switch. Our black wire here, this needs to go to our ground switch. Now this is going to be grounded either to the frame of the vehicle or to the body, somewhere where it will get a good solid contact. For our ground source today we're going to use a simple grounding wire.

It's got a spot here for a self-tapping screw or to tap into an existing bolt. It just splits off into a y so we can get a good spread on our lights. Now before we connect our ground wire to our vehicle let's get our connections taken care of. Just want to strip back the wire. In our case today we're going to be using a heat shrink but connector to make all of our connections. Just slide it on our crimped end and squeeze that closed. Want to make sure you got a good connection so give it a good tug. Then we'll connect that to the black wire or the ground side of our pigtail for our light. That one's connected fine. Find the other tag end for our other ground wire and we'll just repeat that same process. Now that we've got both of our grounds connected we're now going to bring in our power wire. This is already connected to our switch. As I said before, we're going to be using a switch system to where we control on and off. From that switch it runs on/off to the battery to get our 12-volt power. Essentially we just connect this like our ground side. We'll just strip our wires, put on our butt connector, and then we can connect it into our pigtail. Now we're going to use a heat gun to go ahead and shrink down our butt connectors. Now depending on the style of connector you use this step may vary. With a heat shrink butt connector we've got a heat gun. If you don't have that at home you could just as easy use a low power torch or a lighter. Just don't get the open flame too close because it will turn it black. Now we've finished up running our wire. We we're just careful to keep it from anything that might move or any good heavy heat sources that might cause any damage to the wire. That leaves our pigtails out front here exposed. We're going to be able to connect into those without issue. Now it's time to make our ground connection. We're going to go right here into the radiator support. Just using a self-tapping screw. Let's place our wire in behind it and fasten it down. That's all there is to it. Now it's time to install our lights. To do this we're going to use the supplied hardware here in the bottom. Great thing about the hardware or the bolt is that the way the base is designed we don't need a wrench to hold the top of it. It's got two tabs that stick up that holds our bolt in place. It's going to give us some easier mounting options. If we can't access that or we can't get to it it's not going to be an issue. Now we'll just take off the nylon lock nut and the washer, place our bolt down through the . this is the factory hole. Then we'll place our washer on and get our nut started. Then we'll just use our wrench to tighten this on down. Now just before these get fully tight I'm going to leave just a little bit of play in there. That way, when I get them all hooked up I can adjust them accordingly. We're just going to do the same thing here on this side. With the lights on our vehicle we're ready to connect our pigtail with the pigtail coming out of the rear of the light. They use a waterproof connection there so we're not going to have to worry about any kind of corrosion buildup. Then we'll just slide that back. We've got a good link on the pigtail coming out of the light so it helps us to get a clean look all the way back. We'll do the exact same thing here on the passenger side. Now we've got our pigtails hooked up. We've got our lights where we want them mounted onto the brush guard here. Let's flip the switch, makes sure they work for us. Yeah, perfect. They're going to come on fine. We've got plenty of output coming out of them. Now let's make those fine tune adjustment or get them pointed right where we want them. Now as you can see here, we've used an etrailer sticker. We've used that to mark the center of the front of our vehicle. Now as I move the light closer to me out you'll see that. As I move the left one you're going to see that coming in and out. We're just going to get them set where we want them. We want them to be this close to the wall. We want them to be a pretty close beam because it's a 60-degree spread so it's really going to widen out. We're going to get our left and right set where we want it first. We'll tighten that one down. Now we'll adjust our other side here, get it where we want it. We'll just tighten it down. Now we'll do the same thing for our up and down adjustment. As you can see, moving the one closer to me up and down I can get a gauge for where I want it to be. Then we'll just tighten down the Allen bolt located here. There's also one on the other side. As we tighten these down we of course want to help the light hold it in position. Now with our passenger side adjusted we can adjust our driver side here, get it where we want it, and tighten it down as well. That's going to complete the installation of the Vision X Duralux floodlights, part number DURA-460, on our 2000 Nissan Xterra. .