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Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Standard drawbar included.
Features:
Specs:
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2015 Ford C-Max, we're going to be installing the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12092. This is a Class II hitch, inch and a quarter design, has a single pin. It has a loop style safety chain hook. It's gloss black powder-coated for superior rust protection. This hitch has a 3,500-pound trailer weight, that's the pulling weight, and a 350-pound tongue weight, which is the amount of pressure pushing down on it. These are really easy to install.
This one is going to use four existing weld nuts, and you're going to drill two new holes. Now I'm going to give you a couple of measurements to help you in choosing your accessories. From the face of the hitch to the end of the bumper is about 2-1/2 inches, and you have about 9-1/2 inches of ground clearance. This will help you decide on your ball mounts, whether you're going to use a bike carrier or if you're going to use a cargo carrier. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to install this hitch. Okay, to begin our install, on the driver's side, there's an exhaust hanger that's bolted in. We need to take that and unloosen it and push that out to the side.
These are 13-millimeter. We're going to remove 'em, and we're going to set these aside. We're not going to reuse these because the hitch comes with the new bolts to go through there. Simply push it to the side. The hitch uses three bolts per side. These two, we're going to use existing nuts in the frame, and then we will have to drill one for the rear and fish a bolt through there with a block on it.
Over in the passenger side, you're going to see that there's two inserts in the frame there, so it's going to be identical to the other side. Nothing goes in these, so it's a good idea to take a wire brush and just kind of clean out the holes. You take your old bolts and try and start them in the hole to make sure the threads are clean. I just want to make sure they're going to go in nice and easy. It's going to be necessary for access to drop the exhaust a little further down, so simply take out the other two bolts that hold this exhaust up. Now you can gently let it down.
It's going to rest on the frame, so it's not going to go too far. It just gives you a little bit extra clearance. Now we're going to go ahead and set the hitch up in place so we can mark our hole we're going to have to drill. It helps to have a second set of hands to do this. Just temporarily mount it into position, just one bolt on each side to hold it up so we can mark the location we need to drill. We're going to go ahead and mark out the rear hole. Just kind of center up your hitch on your oval slots and mark your hole. We'll do the same thing on the other side. We went ahead and tucked our hitch back down. Now we have our holes marked where we're going to drill a pilot hole, and then we're going to need a 15/32 hole for the bolt to pass through. Now we'll enlarge it to 15/32. We'll do the same thing on the other side. Now we're going to have to enlarge this hole a little bit for your carriage bolt and your block to fit through. It's going to fit up inside there, and we're going to fish it through into this hole. I'm going to take a rotary tool and just enlarge the hole a little bit. And that's just enough to get the bolt in there, and we'll do the same thing on the other side. Now we're going to take our fish, put it through. We're just going to put a little bend in it to make it come out the hole, slip through plate, thread on your bolt. Simply push it up through the hole, and then you got to pull it back, slip it out the hole. You want to make sure you center the square part of the carriage bolt into the block and un-thread it. We're going to do the same thing on the other side. There are two different size bolts that are going to go into the factory weld nuts. On the driver's side, you're going to have the long bolt, and the short one on the passenger's side. The long one's going to go through the exhaust hanger that we removed earlier then make up for the difference in the length for the exhaust hanger. Now we'll get a second pair of hands to help us set the hitch back up in there. We're going to slip it up and put on our 7/16 flange nut then our M8 bolts with our conical washer, and we'll repeat on the other side. In this one, you're going to place the bolt right through the exhaust hanger and thread it back into position. We'll tighten those down and then we'll torque 'em to specs. These bolts are 13-millimeter, and these are going to be 19. Now we're going to install the other side hanger, back with the original bolts that came out of there, and we'll tighten that back up. That's going to conclude our installation of the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12092, on our 2015 Ford C-Max.
Average Customer Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars (4 Customer Reviews)
Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Standard drawbar included.Installed Curt hitchs on my 2012 Ford Focus and my wifes 2013 Ford C-Max. by myself..... NO PROBLEMS ! { I'll be 85 years old this June..}
Super high quality workmanship at a great price
The trailer rental place wanted $350 installed
I bought the Curt Hitch plus had it installed for $150 I saved $200 bucks!
Easy to install the hitch on my C-Max, was able to do it without jacking the vehicle. Whole job took 90 minutes.
Very happy with this purchase. They respected the description in every respect.
Regarding the delivery time, very good too. I recommend without hesitation this product and company.
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Ray B.
11/10/2014
Perfect !..........Ray