Electric Trailer Brakes - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Left/Right Hand - 3,500 lbs - 50 Pairs

Video Transcript for etrailer Electric Trailer Brake Kit Installation

Hi there, trailer owners. Today we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to replace or add drum brakes to your trailer. This is what our replacement brakes look like when they're installed. I do got a couple of different steps in the process here opened so you can see it. This is a completed installation up here. We just simply need to put the wheels back on it.

This one here, we haven't put the drum on yet. So you can take a good look at the drum and shoe assembly that we've got inside of here. And here you can see our shoes. All the hardware and everything comes pre-installed onto the backing plate here. So that greatly simplifies replacing the shoes on your setup, 'cause you're just replacing the entire assembly off of here.

It's really the recommended way to do it because if you're gonna just replace the shoes on your trailer, you'll have to remove, reuse all of your springs here, all the other components over here. And there's a lot of special tools that's required for removal of these components. Now of course you could do it with screwdrivers and needle-nose pliers and things like that, but there's a high chance you're gonna slip and potentially cause harm to yourself not using the appropriate tools. Sure it can be done, but it's definitely way more dangerous. So if you want to avoid having to buy all these special tools, having to reuse hardware that may be partially worn out that could lead to premature wear of your new shoes, I recommend just getting the whole assembly like this.

'Cause we're also going to be getting a new magnet here as well, and this is a wear piece 'cause when your magnet here is activated, when your brakes are activated, this magnet will grab the inside of the drum assembly. It actually grabs on that surface and that's what pushes and causes this to activate our setup here. So for example, if you're driving around, your drum is spinning this direction and this activates. So it magnetizes to the inside. So as the drum's rotating, that's gonna be just kinda scraping along this friction surface here, but it's gonna be grabbing it because of the magnetism and that pulls, it pushes, pushes outward.

You can see there how it's pushing out on our pad. And this is a leading trailing setup. So as this pushes out and our leading pad here grabs, the more intense, smaller friction material here is then gonna grab really hard and push the bottom here where we've got our adjuster. It pushes the bottom over like that, which then pushes our trailing shoe very hard into the drum assembly to cause it to stop. And that's how kinda these leading trailing setups work. But the pieces here that are your wear pieces are gonna be your shoes. Because they contact the drum to slow your trailer and your vehicle down, it wears the material off and also the friction of our magnets. That's why getting this whole assembly here, you're gonna get all the friction wear places replaced, corrosion occurs sometimes on your wiring. So you're gonna get new leads going up and out for connecting to your system. And spring mechanisms and stuff like this, a lot of times people reuse them when they are somewhat worn out to a point where that there's contact that sometimes occurs occasionally and causes premature wear of their components. And all those things add up in the long run to being just a more costly repair if you don't take care of everything. 'Cause if you get in here and you got some hardware that's weak, it wears your shoes out faster, then you gotta replace those sooner. Well, what that's also done is you're pulling your vehicle, or your vehicles pulling your trailer, and if you've got a little bit of wear and stuff like that going on in here, that's more drag that you're putting on your vehicle. So you're reducing your fuel economy, putting more stress on your vehicle and its components as well. So it all kind of compounds and adds up to being more money. So you're best off just taking care of the problems right at the source, getting everything working as smoothly as possible, keeping you safe and also just to help you save money in the long run. This is the automatic adjusting model. So you can see here that it has an adjustment wheel, just like all the assemblies, even the manual adjusters are gonna have an adjustment wheel there. But what this has that the manual ones don't is that there's another mechanism right here. There's a small arm that actually clicks and will activate and spin the wheel to adjust it out as the shoes wear. 'Cause as the material wears off the shoes, the distance between the shoe and the drum becomes greater. So our automatic adjuster here when we back up can activate, give us a click, and then it'll bring our shoes back closer to the wheels, reducing the gap that we've got so that we've got more responsive, more powerful brake assemblies when they're adjusted appropriately. These trailer brake assemblies are gonna be great whether you're wanting to use 'em for a replacement of worn-out assemblies or shoes on a trailer, or if you're wanting to just straight add it to a trailer that didn't have brakes originally. So this is my personal trailer. I didn't have brakes on here. So I'm gonna be adding all the components to get that up and running. Some additional things that you might purchase if you don't have any brakes on your trailer, you will need your drum assemblies and you can get these here at etrailer. I recommend replacing your bearings when you put drums on because the drum's gonna have pre-installed races and this particular kit does come with new bearings, but I do not recommend reusing your bearings from your old hub in a drum if you're gonna be swapping 'em over. 'Cause those bearings are worn to the races inside of that old assembly and they're just gonna prematurely wear inside of here. So you're best off going with new. This is a really nice kit though, because this drum does come with the bearings, comes with the cap, and it also comes with new lug nuts as well, which was nice for me, I had a couple that we're missing. So it's nice that I've got everything I need to go there. We do offer these drums in a couple of different sizes as far as your bolt pattern here, My wheels are five on five inch. So that's what I've got here, but you can also get these in a five on four and a half inch. And the five on four and a half is a little bit more common than the five on five. My trailer was just a little bit of outlier. You can also get it in a E-Z Lube or a just standard cap version. The E-Z Lubes will have a rubber cap here that you can pop off so you can lubricate the zerk fitting on the end of your axles. I don't have those on my trailer, but I went ahead and opted for 'em anyway. There's not minimal cost difference between the two and I like the option of being able to pop this cap off and just do a quick visual inspection if I need to. Now, in addition to your brakes and drum assemblies, if you don't have any on your trailer originally, you're also gonna need wiring. We do have 12-gauge wire that's duplex wiring that you can buy by the foot here at etrailer. So I ran that from the front at my junction box, all the way back here to the assemblies. We went across the other side to get brakes over there working and everything. You can also get heat shrink butt connectors here at etrailer to make all your connections together. If you didn't have existing brakes, that also means that on your flange where you mount your brakes, you probably don't have any hardware to make the attachment there. So we're using a kit from Redline. We actually are using four of those kits to have all the hardware we need to be able to mount our brake assemblies up onto our trailer here. Now, if you are just repairing your brake assemblies, your shoes and stuff like that, you should always do a visual inspection of the components on your existing drum. So check your bearings for any kind of pitting. Clean those out of there. Also check your drum for out of round, you'll wanna check on the inside. You can just do a tape measure and measure across each side. You should have the same number all the way across. If you're getting different numbers, you know that it's outta round and that's gonna cause premature wear of your brakes and it's also gonna reduce the performance of the brakes. You also wanna look for any deep scoring on the inside, things like that. If you see any kind of damage, then I would recommend replacing it because if you put an old used drum on there, that's got scoring on the inside, it's gonna prematurely wear out those new shoes that you put on there. Same if it's outta round, that's gonna cause some heat to build up at certain spots. You're gonna have poor performance, and again, it's gonna prematurely wear out your components. So always do a good visual. The bearings are also very important. That's kind of what holds the whole wheel on here. So if you see pitting or corrosion or anything like that on your old bearings, go with a new set. And this is a great set. Again, you do wanna just double check your wheel pattern, make sure that you are getting the appropriate stud distance for your wheels. These replacement brake assemblies do come as a set for one axle. So you're gonna get a left and a right to be able to replace those. Now, if you're doing like following along with me, adding 'em to your trailer, it is important to double check your quantities. 'Cause I only had to purchase two of these brake assemblies to get a total of four for my trailer, but the drums do come as a quantity of one. So if you're gonna be buying these, you're gonna need four of those. Same with the hardware kits, that's only for one assembly. So you'll need four of those. Make sure you measure the distance of your trailer so you know how much wire you're gonna need if you're gonna be adding it as well. And I'd also recommend picking up some cable ties so that way you can secure all that wiring. And you can also get hose clamps and stuff like that here at etrailer. I recommend that at a few spots as well. We'll show you on our wiring where I recommend putting those to ensure that you're not gonna have any of your moving components here obstruct your wiring. We'll begin our installation here with our trailer. Now I did put some jacks underneath both the front and back corner to lift up this side. And on the opposite side, I do have wheel chalks on the wheels over there on the other side to prevent the trailer from being able to roll. We'll tackle one side at a time. So we got it up high enough that we can remove both the wheels on this side so we can get this done. Now this kit's gonna be great for either repairing a damaged or no longer working brake assembly, but it's also good for adding brakes. This here's my personal trailer and it doesn't have brakes on it. I've got kind of an older truck and I load this trailer up pretty close to the max when I need to. And it does get a little sketchy at times, driving it with my truck. So I'm gonna get some brakes on here so I feel more comfortable. Feel like I can drive at a more appropriate highway speed. I'm that guy that's probably doing 55 on the highway when I got this thing heavily loaded. So we're gonna take care of that today. So we are gonna be actually running wires and doing the whole shebang. So we'll be showing you all that. But if you're just doing a replacement to repair your parts, you can follow along with us and all the information pretty much implies as well. So we'll start by getting our wheels off here. Now I did get it jacked up and you can see our wheels are moving. If you don't have a powerful impact, you would wanna make sure that you take each one of these nuts and crack 'em loose before you lift your trailer up. Otherwise you're gonna have a hard time getting those off. If you got a strong enough impact though, you can just lift it up and zip those right off of there. So we'll get our wheels removed by removing all of these. The lug nuts do vary in size. Mine are 13/16 in size, but they could probably be anywhere between a 3/4 up to 7/8 in most cases for this size a trailer. Now we've got both the wheels removed, we need to get our hubs off of here. Now, if you're doing this at home or you're doing a repair, you're gonna have probably a drum assembly on there and not just a hub, it's gonna be similar. Your drum should have your studs and stuff on it. It's just gonna be that bigger drum assembly. You'll remove your hub and your drum the same way by pulling our cap off here in the middle. So we're gonna knock the cap off of there. Just kinda give it a little tap with your hammer. Just like that, you can see it's working itself loose. Once you get it popped out, you can then switch to a screwdriver to pop that off of there. I do have a rag laid out here below so we can set all of our parts and tools on it, 'cause this is full of grease and you can get a big mess really fast by spreading that grease around. So I highly recommend doing this. Now inside of our assembly here, we should have a cotter pin, and there's the pin there. The other side of the pin here will need to be bent straight. So there's one of the legs, we need to bend that straight. There's another one here. Bend this one straight as well. And then after we've got those bent, we can pull our cotter pin out here. Sometimes you gotta work it a little bit, depending on how it was bent when it was pushed in there, would be a little more difficult to remove. A lot of times you have a loop here at the top. So if you can get that up high enough, you can get your screwdriver or pliers or something in there in that loop and use that to pull your cotter pin through. Or you may break your cotter pin. That does happen sometimes as well. These are older, I haven't replaced the bearings in here in some years. So we'll just pull those through. They break, they come out a lot easier. You can buy replacement cotter pins here at etrailer. They don't come with your brakes. So it is something you would want to add. And it's something I would honestly, I'd recommend just adding anyway. They're a cheap component, and it's kind of a safety mechanism that holds this nut in place. So it's a pretty important component. So putting a new one on there is just a good idea anyway. Our nut here then we'll just remove. It shouldn't be that tight. I'm moving it with Channellocks here just to prevent a bunch of mess from occurring. We're just threading that off of there. All right, now that our nut is removed from there, the whole hub will slide off. The outer bearing though is just kinda sitting in there right now and there's a washer behind the outer bearing. We're gonna be reusing that washer but the rest of the parts we're gonna be replacing. So I'm gonna stick my screwdriver up here, grab my hub. And again, if you got a drum, you can do this the same way, and slide that out. The bearing, you can get the drop-down on your screwdriver. We can set that down on our napkin and then pull our whole assembly off now, whether it' your drum or just your hub here, and then set that down as well. We just went through the same thing for the rear axle here, since we're putting brakes on both. Go ahead and clean up all the grease that's on here. We wanna get this nice and clean because if you don't know what type of grease that was on here before, when you go to put new grease on it, if you're using a different brand of grease, it is possible that they could have slightly different chemical compositions that may not be compatible with one another and may cause it to break down prematurely. So we're just gonna get all this cleaned off here and just go with all new grease so we know that it's gonna be all compatible. We'll get our other one cleaned up the same way. And then we can start getting our brakes put on. I recommend getting the grease outta the way first, 'cause you also don't want to get any of this grease on your shoes, your pads there or anything, or your brake assemblies. That's just gonna cause them to not function as well as they should. Once you've got the ends cleaned up, we can put our new brake assembly on here. Now, if you had an existing brake assembly that you we're replacing, you would wanna remove the bolts, the nuts from the studs. Here you can see on this assembly that it has studs that stick through. Your old assembly should have studs that stick through like that as well. So you just need to remove the nuts that should be on the backside of the flange here. And then your brake, old brake assembly should just slide all the way off and you can get that out of the way. Now I don't have any here 'cause we're adding brakes. So I didn't have any before, which means I also don't have nuts to secure it with. So I'm using a hardware kit that we sell here at etrailer. You'll get nuts and lock washers. You will wanna purchase a kit per brake assembly that you're gonna be using. So I'm gonna be putting four assemblies on this 'cause I got two axles, one for each side. So I did have to purchase four of these kits to get all the hardware that I need. So once you get your old ones off of there, we can go ahead and get the new ones on. They are gonna be side specific. So look for a sticker in there. This one here is labeled left, which means it's gonna be the driver's side. So do make sure that you put the appropriate one on 'cause the magnet here with the arm mechanism is gonna be on the opposite side, it's gonna be over here, angled this way for the other side. So it is important that you put 'em on the appropriate side. There usually is a label on the back as well. There it says left hand. So you've got a couple of different spots that you can verify where the sticker is and then also your arm should be like this. So the magnet here, the little arm, should be angled towards the front of the trailer if you've got it in the appropriate spot. So we can go ahead and slide it on now. Your wiring normally comes wrapped in here. So make sure you grab your wiring out of there. We don't want to pinch it on any of the flanges. So just make sure you pull that back out of the way. This will just slide in place, put your magnet at the bottom. And once it's slid on there, we'll then secure it with our hardware. If you had an old assembly you removed, you can just reuse your hardware. If not, then you'll need to use the kit that we just referred you to there. And we'll now snug down our brake flange hardware with an 11/16 socket or wrench. And you wanna make sure you torque these to the manufacturer's specifications. Go back in and make sure we torque each one of those to your manufacturer's specifications. So now we're gonna go ahead and put our drum on. Now, if you we're doing just a brake replacement, at this point you would want to clean up your bearings and spec them for any kind of rust or pitting, and then repack those bearings if they are okay. If they're not, then you would wanna replace them. If you're like us and you don't have any existing hardware, we do have pre-greased kits here at etrailer. So I'm gonna be using that today. It's gonna save me some time. And they do a very good job, 'cause I'm a little skeptical. I like to do all my own stuff myself so I know it's done right. But I've installed these kits a few times in the past on customers' trailers and I've always been plenty impressed on the packing jobs that they do inside, enough so that I'm willing to put it on my own trailer without having to follow it up. So we're gonna pull out the inner cap there and I'm gonna save these 'cause I'm gonna save my hubs just in case I wanna reuse them. So you can use those in your hubs to seal those up. The other side here does have a cap as well. We're gonna leave that on it for the moment. The other side has our bearing and stuff in it, but we have to reuse a couple of our pieces here. Even if you didn't have an existing drum before, you're still gonna have these pieces in your hub assembly that we need to reuse. And that's the washer that you'll find on your, typically it sticks onto the backside of the outer bearing. Every now and then it sticks to the nut when you take it off. So go ahead and take those pieces off of there and clean 'em up. 'Cause again, with the grease contamination, we don't want to get any of this old grease mixed in with the new grease, 'cause again, these are pre grease. So we're actually not, I don't know exactly what brand of grease is used in it there. So we'll have to look into that to verify it. But since we don't know what was on this trailer, this is an older trailer now. I can't remember what I put on here several years ago when I greased 'em. So we're gonna get all that off of there. Same thing with our nut, we have to reuse that. And then if you are reusing your cotter pin, you would want to clean that up as well. I broke mine, so I'm gonna have to replace it. So all the new ones, won't need to clean that. So, all right, we got those pieces cleaned up. Get the majority of that off of there. Get those guys prepared and ready 'cause we're gonna be using those in just a minute. We've got our shafts and everything cleaned up here. Our hardware's all tightened down for our brake assembly. We do still have to hook up the wiring here in the back, but I'm gonna get the drum on it and get that on, just get that kinda out of our way. That way, any grease we got in our hands, we're not accidentally touching the shoes and getting any kinda grease smear inside of there. So I'll grab our other assembly here. You can go ahead and pull this off. When you pull this off, your bearing is right there though, so just be careful. Don't turn this thing downwards, 'cause that bearing will just fall out of there. And now we're just gently looking for the opening in our seal in the back there, and sliding our hub onto it. We're trying not to nick the seal on the splines, or the threads of the shaft there. We want it to just go on nice and smooth. And our bearing slid on there for us. We can now follow this up with our washer and nut. I'm just gonna smear some of that grease in there, put our washer in place, and then our nut to follow that up. And now we'll just tighten this down. I'm gonna use the Channellocks once again, just to prevent getting any grease on my hand. And we are gonna slightly over tighten this just for the first initial tightening to make sure that we get our hub fully seated. We're not gonna leave it in that over-tightened state though. That will prematurely wear out your bearings. So snug it on there pretty good, making sure we got that guy fully seated. After you get it fully seated, we can then back off the nuts some 'cause we really don't want it to be tight like this. That's just making sure it's pushed all the way on. Once we back it off, we're gonna set it at a nice loose position. Basically, where it touches right there, as soon as we feel resistance, that's kinda where we wanna stop. We want it to be roughly in that location there. That's gonna give us, it's gonna remove the majority of the play out of our bearings and not over tighten them to where there's pressure on it. 'Cause if you have pressure on it, you're gonna be digging the rollers into the races and it's just gonna cause it to prematurely wear. So we want it to be in just kind of a nice free state like that. And I wanna go grab a new cotter pin here and get that inserted. So now we've got our new cotter pin. Now you wanna find the hole where it came out of. This is kind of that neutral position right there where it feels good. Now you can go one space on either side 'cause kinda where we're at right now, this particular lug is right over where the hole for our cotter pin goes, and you can either loosen it or tighten it. I tend to go whichever way it's closest to. So it's already a little bit past the start of the hole. So we're gonna tighten it just a smidge just to be able to get our cotter pin through. Once you've got your cotter pin slid through there, you'll want to take the ends and bend them over just like we did, so just like the previous one was that we had removed. So just bend them over like that. Make sure we get it smashed against the end there just to make it easier when we install our cap here in a minute. 'Cause if the cotter pin's sticking straight out, sometimes that can obstruct your cap. And when you purchase this hub kit, there are two different versions with different caps that you can purchase. You can purchase the E-Z Lube version, which has a removable rubber plug there for E-Z Lube axles. You can see you can pop that off of there. That way you could reach your E-Z Lube grease fitting. Now I don't have E-Z Lube axles on my trailer. So if you didn't have those, you could save a little bit of money by getting the solid version here. We're gonna go ahead and put the E-Z Lube versions on it 'cause that's what I bought. But either one is fine, you can use either. It's just that if you have the E-Z Lube option, I'd highly recommend getting this style of cap. So that way you can quickly grease up those bearings, just straight through the cap without having to pull the cap off. 'Cause these caps are a lot harder to take off than that whole rubber seal is. So we'll push that in there. Just kinda spinning it a little bit to just get some of the grease kinda out of the way. And we're just gonna tap this into place. Choose your hammer and just gently tap on around. All right, clean up any excess grease you've got on the outside there. So now we've got that on there. We've got our wiring in the back here that we need to hook up. And then I do also recommend adjusting your drum. These are automatically adjustable drums here. As far as the brake assemblies that we've got for your shoes, they do have an auto adjuster in there, but the initial set I like to set myself and then I let the auto adjuster kinda take over from there. They don't feel too bad here. We want a slight drag on it and you can see there as we spin it, we do have just an ever so slight drag. This is pretty good, we might only put maybe a click or two onto it just to make it feel good. But this is kind of what you're looking for, very close to it. You wanna be able to spin it. You'll be able to hear an audible slight drag like that. But you don't want it to stop instantly. You can see we get a couple of rotations. So that's actually pretty close. I might put just again one, maybe one or two clicks on it just to take a little bit more of the free play out of it. But we don't wanna over adjust it or else you'll burn your brakes up. So that's pretty, feels pretty close. Our wiring's here in the back. So I did have to run all the wiring on this trailer. So we can give you a quick peek at that later. But we're gonna hook up this particular hook up here. So on the back of our assembly, got these two wires here. They do come pre-stripped and you can see they're both green, 'cause it doesn't really matter which wire you hook to which one here. One of these wires is going to be the output from your brake controller and the other wire is gonna be ground, and your magnet that's inside of here that activates isn't polarized, it doesn't care. As long as one of them's ground and one of 'em gets power from a brake controller, either one of them, it's gonna work. Hook 'em up, I'm just gonna grab one of the wires. The way that I ran my wiring here, the black wire is the output from the brake controller and the white wire is ground. So you just take your wire and you'll poke it in there. And you may or may not need to do this. This wire here actually is the lead that's gonna jump it to the rear axle. So I'm gonna need to hook that in with this as well. So we get our rear axle also powered up. And I may strip a little bit more back on this particular wire just because I'm adding it to such a large gauge wire over there. So we'll probably strip a little bit more back. That way we can more easily twist this wire in with our larger gauge one. All right, and then we'll just slide that in to connect it with our other black wires. Crimp that down. And then we'll do the same thing with our other wire to get it ground. If you're working on your trailer at home, there's a good chance that your brake wire is gonna be blue and not black. Black's just what I ran. But blue is the most common color for your brake output. So just keep that in mind. If you're trying to identify the wiring at home, obviously, you can test it with your test slide, but to help speed up the process, if you look for the blue wire, there's a good chance that's gonna be it. All right, we've got our connections made. Double check your wires. You see there I was able to pull one out. So we we're gonna redo this one. So you always wanna just double check them there. And we also are using heat shrink butt connectors there. I would highly recommend this if you're doing this at home, use heat shrink ones. That way we can seal 'em up to prevent moisture from occurring. Double check all those and everything is nice and solid in there now. So we're good to go. These are heat shrink butt connectors. So we're gonna use our heat gun now to shrink them down and seal up the ends to keep moisture out. All right, now that we've got our wires hooked up, the only thing that's really left is to just double check that adjustment on here and adjust it if you want to. Again, if you don't want to, you could just leave it. It is automatically adjusting. So just driving your trailer around, you could drive it, hit the brakes back up, hit the brakes, and then it should automatically adjust it there. But I like to just know before I even take my trailer out that I've got it set up right and I'll let the adjuster go from there. There's your adjustment caps here for accessing your adjuster. On the driver's side one here, we want the cap towards the rear of the trailer. It may be the front one on the passenger side, but over here we want this one. So just take your flat-bladed screwdriver and just get behind the cap and pop it out of there. It's just kind of a rubberized, kind of a plasticky rubber material. And now inside this hole, you will have a wheel that has a bunch of teeth on it and we can actually adjust our brakes using that little wheel. So inside the hole here, there you can see the automatic adjuster. It's this, the chrome piece there with the little bar. It's hard to see it 'cause it's so dark 'cause it's black material. It's dark in there and it's also painted black as well, your little adjusting star wheel. But we can use our screwdriver here to turn the wheel. And this will change the distance here at the bottom between our shoes. And you can use it to either screw it outward, bringing the shoes closer to the inside of the drum or screw it inward, bringing the shoes further away. Ideally, again we want to try to get 'em to be pretty close. So we could use a little bit more than what we've got there. So we're actually gonna adjust it to be increase. So then here's one of the other brake assemblies. This is the rear axle one. We have the drum off of this one so you can see. This is the adjustment star wheel here. This is the metal arm that is your auto adjuster that will automatically click to adjust it to spread it outward. And this is the access hole. So you can see my screwdriver going in here and then you can see this is how where you can kinda just adjust the wheel as necessary, whether you're wanting to go less, like that, or more the other direction. But you do not want to adjust this, we're just showing you here for an example. You don't want to adjust it without your drum on there, 'cause you could easily be pushing these off to the side. Some of your hardware could potentially pop off of there. So it's really important you do have the drum on there and then with the drum on there, you can also check to see how much drag you have. If you're adjusting it like this, you can't see and verify how much drag you got. This is just for visual purposes so you guys can see where that adjuster wheel is. So we've got our assemblies installed here. If you haven't already rounded your wiring, if you're doing a complete conversion from no brakes to brakes, we can cover that now. So we started at the front by hooking into our seven-way connector and we wanna run it back. And as we're running it back, we did drill some holes into the small frame of the trailer there. That way we could route it underneath, keep it supported. You can see we've got some clamps there that we're using in a couple of strategic spots. Like that one's in the wood, but I did try to go into the metal if I could, wherever I could. So it's gonna be in the metal here. And when you get back here to your axles, this is where you really need to pay attention and use these clamps appropriately. 'Cause your suspension's gonna be moving up and down. You need to make sure you got an appropriate length of wire for your suspension to be able to travel when it's connected to your brake assembly. And you also wanna make sure that when your suspension yield goes up and it's kinda, you're heavily loaded, that you don't have too much excess there that's gonna fall down and get caught up in your components. And that's where we use those clamps in a few strategic spots to give us a nice bend where we know it's not gonna get obstructed by anything, but give us enough flex for our suspension travel. So now that we've got this one fully installed, we're just going to repeat this same process for however many we're wanting to add or replace. I'm gonna be doing my whole trailer. So I'm gonna do this three more times. And after we've got that completed, we put our wheels back on. When we install our lug nuts, we wanna make sure that you installed in the appropriate way. They are backwards on here when you receive 'em. So you wanna put the tapered end towards the wheel. And of course we're gonna torque those to the appropriate specifications for our trailer. And that completes our look at etrailer's drum brake assemblies..