What you describe is a classic symptom of a poor ground connection. Everything works okay until you turn on the vehicle's headlights or running lights, then things get interesting. When the headlights are on, the wiring for the lighting on the trailer is under full load which is when a problem will show itself.
The trailer connector ground should be securely attached to the trailer tongue, to clean bare metal. Remove the ground screw or bolt and sand down a dime-sized area around the hole... view full answer...
If your Curt Venturer Trailer Brake Controller # C74VV is flashing red that means there is a short on the brake circuit of your 2002 Dodge Dakota. Since the controller is new and your trailer brakes work on your buddy's truck the problem is likely going to be corrosion in the 7-way of your '02 Dakota.
You can try and clean it or, assuming you have the factory 7-way, replace it with the Multi-Plug T-One Connector Assembly for 7-Way & 4 Pole Trailer Connector # 20135. It is also vital you... view full answer...
First thing you should do at this point is test the 4-way of the wiring harness with a circuit tester part # PTW2993 for voltage on all of the right pins when the taillight signals are being applied. Just like in the video I attached.
If the voltage checks out there but the trailer lights still don't function right then the problem is on the trailer wiring. That would mean that problem is either due to a ground issue or a short issue.
Make sure that the trailer side connector are clean... view full answer...
I can help you troubleshoot this voltage issue.
First, if you are only getting 3 volts when testing with the truck parked that is because the brake controller # 90195 is a proportional brake controller and needs to sense the momentum of the truck and trailer braking to send the right amount of voltage back to the brakes.
If you are driving around and it is only reading 3, then I would recommend turning the gain all the way up and if you are still only getting 3 volts then you may have... view full answer...
I could not find any order history based on your email address but for the Hopkins InSight trailer brake controller if you see power levels indicated when you press the manual override lever there should be output on the blue wire that gets routed to your 7-way trailer connector.
If your Durango has a factory 7-way, installation will use wiring adapter # HM53035 to connect to the under-dash port. If it does not have a factory 7-way, then the InSIGHT would have been hardwired. Either way,... view full answer...
If you do a lot of towing on dirt and gravel roads and not on pavement then the best tire type to use would be a bias ply tire and not a radial. Depending on your tire size though there may or may not be a bias ply tire available.
The other option is to go with a tire in the same size but at a higher load range. It would have a higher ply rating and be stronger. You would still need to keep the tires inflated to the maximum psi.
If you could tell me the tire size you have and the load... view full answer...
That is an interesting problem. I do not think making the left turn caused the issue but it is possible that there is a short circuit in the trailer connectors that caused the 12 volt power circuit to jump to the brake circuit, activating the brakes.
This can happen if the trailer connectors on the vehicle and/or trailer side are dirty or have corrosion build up. Dirt and corrosion can also build up in the backs of the connectors where the wires attach. You will need to clean out any dirt... view full answer...
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit tester like the Quickee Tester, part # PTW2993, you should get output to the controller side of the wire you severed. If the manual slide activates the trailer brake output wire properly, try the brake pedal. If the brake pedal activates the brake output properly also then the problem is farther back... view full answer...
If both turn signals are turning on with just the left or right signal activated on the tow vehicle, this means that the two circuits are shorting out to each other somewhere along the wiring on your tow vehicle or trailer.
I first recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the connector at the rear of your tow vehicle. You can have a buddy run through the lighting function inside the cab while you test the pins on the connector. If you find that both the left turn and right... view full answer...
If you aren't getting any power at the 12V pin on the 7-Way connector (which should be at the 1 o'clock position) for your 2014 Ram then a missing or blown fuse is the most likely cause.
I took a look at the online owner's manual for your truck and it looks like there should be a 30 amp fuse located in the F30 position inside the power distribution box (under the hood near the battery). Check to make sure this fuse is present and in good condition.
If this doesn't resolve your issue... view full answer...
T-One harnesses are almost impossible to wire incorrectly, so I would say it is most likely somewhere in the trailer wiring. Whichever side, driver or passenger, is having trouble, start at that tail light and work your way towards the vehicle.
If the light has a ground wire, make sure it has a good clean ground connection, and make sure it is touching metal and not paint. Some lights are grounded by the bolts or screws that attach the light to the frame, so make sure those are clean... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a wiring issue between the truck, adapter and trailer connector.
I would start at the factory 7-Way on both of your trucks and test them for proper function. The photo I added shows the proper function for each terminal inside the 7-Way connector. Once you are sure the vehicle side connectors are wired correctly you can turn your attention to the trailer and make sure the connector on the trailer, I am assuming a 6-Way since it is a horse trailer, is wired correctly,... view full answer...
There may have been a slight weak ground that was allowing some of the lower power draw functions to still work. Trailers can sometimes seem possessed when there is a ground issue. So hopefully you have fixed that issue. The grounds on both the trailer side and the vehicle side, as well as the grounds for all of the trailer lights will need to be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
A weak ground issue would show up as soon as there is higher power draw on the system.... view full answer...
The most common issue we have with the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness part # C56109 on a 2018 Dodge Journey is an insufficient ground. Therefore, I recommend that you remove the ground for this harness, sand down the surface, and then reattach. This should fix your issue but if it does not then check the pins inside the driver side plug to make sure they are not bent or broken.
If the issue still occurs after the ground has been reattached and the driver side plug has been checked... view full answer...
You have a short between the stop/turn circuits of your trailer wiring. Normally the blinker/stop circuit for each side of the trailer goes to either side of the trailer separately but in your situation the two wires most likely have exposed wire between them which is allowing the voltage from either side to transfer to the other as well. You'll need to go over the wiring of the trailer to track down the short and fix as needed. view full answer...
You will need to do some testing to make sure the wires on the trailer side connector are matched with the functions of the truck side connector. It sounds like you are getting current to the brakes on your trailer even when the truck brakes are not applied.
You can use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test the pins on the truck side first. I have attached a photo that shows both the vehicle side and the trailer side of a 7-way connector you can check out. view full answer...
In general unhitching your 5th wheel trailer will be easiest when the truck and trailer are on level ground and with the hitch's slide bar and jaw well lubricated. You'll also want to be sure that if you have a padlock on the slide bar for securing your trailer that you unlock and remove this first.
You can also rock the truck slightly forward and backward to find the position that will place the least tension on the jaw; this will give it the best chance to release easily.
Once you unhitch... view full answer...
I do not know what wiring harness you have so I'll take a best guess since you were looking for Curt products, and assume you have the # C56331. Moving the ground connection was a good choice, it is unfortunate that this did not solve the problem.
The right turn signal and the right stop light are on the same wire, so it probably isn't the wiring harness malfunctioning. Still, It wouldn't hurt to double check the installation. Make sure the connectors are properly seated by unplugging... view full answer...
In a tandem towing application, meaning pulling one trailer with another trailer, sway is common. If you happen to have a bass boat, which is much heavier in the rear due to the engine's weight, the sway problem will be especially noticeable. Any trailer tows best when it has the right amount of tongue weight (TW), which is generally 12 to 14-percent of its gross weight (GVWR).
Most hitches mounted on 5th wheels will NOT be rated for use with a weight distribution system. To use one of... view full answer...
You will always have trouble loading the second bike if your first bike is placed on the rack at that angle. The Thule Bike Adapter Bar for Women's and Alternative Frame Bikes, part # TH982XT, should be used around the stem and the seat post of your bike. I am guessing that your quick release seat post collar, I can see it in the photo, loosened and that is what caused the original problem.
If your quick release post is tight you should not have a problem putting the frame adapter around... view full answer...
Go To Results