On your Curt TriFlex Trailer Brake Controller # C24VV, the decimal point as you put it is standby mode with no trailer connected. The blank screen is also standby mode and that screen is what is seen when simply starting the vehicle, but that screen should illuminate when you press the manual override or show the decimal point when you hit the brake pedal only while moving since it is a proportional controller. If it does not operate under those criteria, then you will need to have the... view full answer...
Yes, the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller part # TK94FR that you referenced is a fit for your 2013 Audi Q7 with a factory 7-way as it can fit basically any vehicle with a functioning 7-way. Sometimes it is a challenge to get the controller to pair with German vehicles but here's some pointers for if you ran into any issues.
First, If you do not see displayed what the instructions say just keep going through the steps. Sometimes, it will not display what it is supposed to but it will... view full answer...
One of the steps when installing Draw-Tite trailer hitch # 75940 on a 2012 Audi Q5 is that you need to disconnect the electrical plug under the scuff plate in the cargo area. It is possible that the connector was not plugged back in. It could also mean that in the process of unplugging that connector and installing the hitch that a pin inside one of the sides got bent or broken.
Later in the installation you do have to unplug all of the plugs for lights and sensors so the same issue could... view full answer...
Your 2021 Audi Q7 is going to have a smart wiring system. For the Curt Echo # C51180 to function properly and receive power you will need to connect your trailer 7-way to the Echo once you plug into the connector on your Audi. The computer in your Audi wants to see a full trailer connection before it will send power to the 12 volt circuit that powers the Echo. Your Audi will also have a trailer tow mode that should also be selected while you are towing. view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Reese and he said they have not had any reported issues that the rivet nuts included with the Dual Cam sway control were too small. Just to be sure, you can check the knurls of the nut with a dial caliper to make sure they are slightly larger than 11/16 of an inch, or 0.6875 inches if you use a digital caliper.
Your solution is the exact same solution that Reese recommends in this situation. Drill completely through the frame and run bolts to the opposite side.... view full answer...
What you described is a classic ground issue. The problem is that the added amperage draw of the head/running lights being on for your vehicle makes the trailer taillights a bit weaker.
What you would want to is run the grounds of the light assemblies of your trailer back to the main ground harness of your trailer. I can almost guarantee that will fix the problem.
I attached a help article for you to check out as well that covers 4-way troubleshooting. view full answer...
We need to determine if the issue is on the vehicle side or the trailer side, so first disconnect the trailer and then use a circuit tester like # PTW2992 or the one that came with your ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness # 119250KIT. If the functions don't work correctly for each pin like in the video then you will want to go back to your sensor connections and retest them. You also want to make sure the ground ring terminal is connected bare metal to metal and some sand paper... view full answer...
I called my contact at Thule about your problems with the straps on the Thule Apex XT Swing 4 # TH9027XT, and they have heard similar problems with the downtube straps. One common issue is that the attachment straps are not clicking into the cradles all the way. Secondly, it is important to not be over-tightened. The straps need to be snug, but any more tension can cause them to get stuck. view full answer...
The brakes on your new RV trailer can be activated either by the brake controller or the trailer's own on-board emergency breakaway system. I have not heard of an issue with the Echo # C51180 before now, and while it is possible the unit has an internal malfunction I suspect the problem is more likely to be in either the trailer's breakaway system or within the 7-way wiring on the Audi or the trailer.
For the trailer brakes to lock up without you pressing the brake pedal they would need... view full answer...
I do have an option for you but the electrical system on your 2014 Audi A6 is very complex and I would not be able to help you fool it so if that is the goal then you would need to take the vehicle to the dealer and see what advice they have to offer. The best option I have for you which will not involve playing games with Audi's electronics would be to use the Trailer Connector Adapter part # 118710 that you already have and then remove the 7-way on the trailer in place of a 5-way like... view full answer...
To be clear, the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118561 is not a confirmed fit for the 2014 Audi A5. This wiring harness fits 2012-2016 Honda CR-V. If you are looking for a wiring harness for a 2014 Audi A5 I recommend the ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness w/ 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector and Installation Kit # 119250KIT.
In order to troubleshoot this problem I would first begin by checking the ground since it should be quick and simple.... view full answer...
It looks like you purchased and installed the LED Trailer Tail Light w/ Reflector - Stop, Tail, Turn - Submersible - 7 Diodes - Round - Red Lens # STL13RFHXB on a trailer. Typically when this happens it indicates a bad ground somewhere on the trailer, so you'll want to check the ground connection on the right side light, as well as any ground wire for the entire trailer.
This would be a great starting point for your troubleshooting, but if all of your ground wires are firmly connected... view full answer...
The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C56404 is a confirmed fit for your 2017 Audi Q5 and fits behind both the driver and passenger side rear access panels. I've attached the installation instructions which gives you photos to see the locations. The wires will be long enough when installed correctly. I confirmed this with Curt. view full answer...
My concern is the Curt TriFlex Trailer Brake Controller # C24VV not getting enough power on your 2018 Audi Q7. There is a technical bulletin which I have linked below since the wiring on your Q7 will not provide enough power to the trailer brakes which is causing the OL error you are getting. You will need the following components from your Audi dealer.
1 connector housing (#1J0-972-782)
2 wire/terminal assemblies (#000-979-228)
These will help you to wire in a 30-Amp Relay # BL63VR.... view full answer...
I would first verify that the 7-way connector on your 2011 Audi Q7 has constant 12v power to the 1 o'clock pin which is the auxiliary power pin. To do this you will need a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If you do not have 12v power I recommend checking your vehicle's owner's manual to find the fuse location and check for a blown fuse, or the factory may not have hooked up the 12v auxiliary power to the battery.
If you need to add the 12v power, you will need to run # 10-1-1 wire which... view full answer...
The fact that the brake lights on your trailer are staying on all the time indicates a possible short somewhere in the vehicle or trailer wiring. Although it's pretty unlikely with the connector being new, I recommend first checking the connector at the rear of the vehicle for any dirt or debris that might be causing a short.
If the connector looks fine, I recommend moving to the vehicle wiring harness.
The Tekonsha ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness # 119250KIT is particularly... view full answer...
Yes, it is possible that there isn't enough voltage on the 2013 Q7 for the unit to recognize that a trailer is connected. To fix this issue you can try adapter # 20142. This adapter will provide more current draw so that this issue does not happen. view full answer...
Since the brake lights are only sending power to the pin on the ZCI # 119250KIT when you have the hatch opened on your 2012 Audi Q5 that leads me to believe that you have some wiring that is pinched somewhere. The ZCI should be getting constant power from your vehicle battery and then should activate those different lighting functions once they have established what wire is for what function (instructions say approx 5 seconds so a little longer is okay). I would recheck all of your connections... view full answer...
The most common issue we see when using the Curt Powered Tail Light Converter part # C59236 on a vehicle with tail lights in the rear hatch like on your 2011 Audi Q5 is testing the 4-way with the hatch open. If the hatch is open that could very well cut power to the tail lights depending on if you spliced into the set in the bumper or the set in the hatch.
If you have confirmed that you are testing the 4-way with the hatch closed then recheck your ground. The ground will need to be on... view full answer...
I would start by double checking your 4-way connection. Make sure it is clean and that there is no dirt or debris that could be causing an issue.
If everything looks good, consider moving the ground. I realize you already checked to make sure it was on bare metal, but this is typically the problem when using one turn signal engages turn signals on both sides of the trailer. You may also need to run a new ground wire if there is a short.
In order to test the sensors there are a few things... view full answer...
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