If there is something wrong inside your Titan actuator then it has to be tested and repaired by the manufacturer. But the issue might not be a problem with the actuator itself. We can rule it out with some testing.
The first test for the Brakerite EHB is to pull the Breakaway switch cable to see if the unit starts and runs normally. If it does not run, disconnect the breakaway battery leads. Then apply the brakes in the tow vehicle or use the manual override on the in cab control to start... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha and in order to correct the issue of the circuit being overloaded when installing the Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller, # TK90160, on your 2015 BMW X5, you will need to install a Pulse Preventer, # 5501. The pulse preventer will need to be wired backwards which will allow power to come from the vehicle but will block power from coming out of the controller and back to the vehicle.
Once you have installed the pulse preventer, I recommend taking your... view full answer...
The converter is designed to provide circuit protection, to isolate any shorts from the vehicle wiring. In this instance, it served its purpose perfectly by blowing its internal circuit breaker before anything on the vehicle could be damaged. The circuit breaker shuts down before the short can reach the vehicle wiring, which explains why no fuses were blown.
Before replacing the converter, I'd suggest you carefully examine the trailer wiring, looking for the short that caused the converter... view full answer...
Getting the running lights to work would require attaching the correct wire on the trailer wiring harness you are using to the correct wire on the 2005 BMW X5. It will be very similar to the video I have linked showing a typical installation of wiring harness # 119250KIT.
You will need to either use the included circuit tester with the wiring harness or # PTW2993 if you need one. Then test the taillight wiring to find the correct wire for the running light circuit. If you do have power... view full answer...
I looked up your order and saw that you have purchased both the ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness part # 119250KIT and the Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller part # ETBC7. The ZCI kit as you mentioned will not require any cutting or splicing. However, the 4-way included in this kit does not have a circuit for the reverse lights. The reverse light circuit is obtained through the 7-way trailer connector with the purple wire. The purple wire from the 7-way on... view full answer...
This can be a fairly common issue with trailers that have LED lights being towed with a vehicle that also uses LED lights. The higher amperage being pushed through the wiring harness can cause lights to pulse and is usually a pretty easy fix. Multiple lights are generally installed to a trailer with a single ground source. With your situation, you will need to have a dedicated ground for each light. This should cause the run off to dissipate into the frame and solve the pulsing issue. view full answer...
The issue you are having is common for German vehicles. There are a few things you can try to get the unit to pair.
First, If you do not see displayed what the instructions say just keep going through the steps. Sometimes, it will not display what it is supposed to but it will still work if you go through the steps to completion.
If that does not work then you can try taping off the pin in the 5 oclock position at the back of the RF (where the trailer plugs into) using electrical tape.... view full answer...
What you mention is a classic system of a ground problem. Everything works fine until the running light circuit is activated, at which point the trailer's taillights are drawing maximum amperage. If there's a ground problem, this is where it's going to show up.
On the vehicle side, make sure the white ground wire is securely attached to clean metal on the vehicle frame or chassis, but the chances are that the ground problem is somewhere in the wiring on the trailer itself. The main ground... view full answer...
You are correct about the bulb out sensor and the adapter # C35FR. There are load resistors built into the adapter to provide more load so that you do not get that sensor. The solenoid should have enough draw without it but it might help.
Since it works as it should when connecting the trailer to another vehicle that does sound like and issue on the vehicle side or with the adapter. Be sure to check that the output pin on the adapter matches the one on the trailer that leads to the solenoid... view full answer...
If your cylinder lock code is unidentifiable, you would have to get a new lock cylinder, though this would only be possible if your current cylinder is unlocked. If it is, you would just need the Thule Universal Change Key # 853-1251 to remove the lock and replace it with the Replacement Cylinder # THLOCKN022 and Replacement Key # THKEYN022. These cylinders and keys also come in a quantity of two # TH450200.
I've added a link to a video for you which displays how the replacement cylinders work. view full answer...
If you are not receiving power on the brown wire leading into the converter box then I would make sure that you have this wire spliced into the correct circuit which you can confirm using a circuit tester. Also, the tail lights that you will be splicing into are those located on the body of the vehicle, not the hatch as these lights can lose power while the hatch is open.
It looks like you are using the Curt Circuit Protected Converter part # C56175 which Curt does not recommend for the... view full answer...
Based on my research, a "n.c." display that flashes continuously on the Tekonsha Prodigy RF # TK94FR most commonly indicates that there is no power to the controller's Power Module. I recommend testing your vehicle's trailer connector with a circuit tester, like # 40376, to ensure that there is power at the socket. On your vehicle's trailer socket, the 12V power pin should be located in the 1 o'clock position. If there is no power reaching the trailer socket, you will want to check the... view full answer...
I have an answer for you. Assuming that you have the correct front wind deflectors that are customly designed to fit your 2017 BMW X5 like the WeatherTech Side Window Rain Guards with Dark Tinting # WT80437, there are a couple of tips that may help you with the functionality of your front windows. The first tip is to ensure that the only part of the deflector insterted into the window channel is the thin, machined flange along the edge of the deflector. Secondly, it is important to make... view full answer...
The LED taillights often have this hyperflashing issue. To solve it, you simply need to add a load resistor like # DI34ZR. You will need one resistor for each side and this kit comes with 2. This will draw more power from your system so you won't get that hyperflashing. I've attached a diagram on correctly installing these load resistors. view full answer...
We see the hyper-flashing issue on vehicle's like your 2009 BMW X6 that are towing trailer's with LED lights.
One option to solve the issue is to use the adapter # 20142 which is the easiest way.
The second is to install load resistors, like # DI34ZR.
The reason you experience hyperflash is because of the low draw from LED lights. Both solutions build resistance in the line to solve the hyperflash problem. view full answer...
It sounds like the running light pin is not providing enough power for the three cameras. You might need to introduce the 7-Way Vehicle Power Adapter w/ Power Switch for Furrion RV Observation Camera, part # FR87PR, into your electrical system. It is designed to connect the trailer wiring from your tow vehicle's 7-way trailer connector. It will provide your cameras extra power. This should eliminate the intermittent power issues you are having with your camera.
I have included product... view full answer...
The first thing to do will be to check the input signal on both the green and yellow wires on going to the Curt # C59236 converter. This will allow you to narrow down the cause of the issue and we will know if something is wired incorrectly, or if you have a defective converter.
The best thing to do will be to use a circuit tester like # PTW2992 to see what kind of input signal we are getting on the green and yellow wires. If the input tests normal, but the problem persists we can rule... view full answer...
I am not sure if you are referring to the brake light on your 2011 BMW X3 or one on the trailer you might be towing but in either case since the problem goes away after you remove and re-insert the bulb it sounds like there may be either a loose wiring connection or potentially a corrosion issue within the bulb socket.
Sometimes just handling the wiring/socket/bulb on a troublesome light will move it enough to reestablish the power input when the wire is loose. By the same token, removing... view full answer...
Multiplex wiring like on your 2001 BMW X5 can get pretty confusing. A lot of times there are multiple wires that have multiple functions so it's best to test every wire for each function. I've linked a video of the # 119250KIT wiring harness being installed on a 2013 X5 and you can see where the installer finds two wires each have both the brake and the running lights signals on them. However, the voltage is different one having higher voltage for the brakes and the other a higher voltage... view full answer...
Yes, when the electric signal is sent from the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller # 90195 to the trailer's brakes, it should cause both sides to lock up. Since only one side is locking up, it could indicate that one brake assembly needs to be manually adjusted. I attached a video that shows how to do this process.
If that doesn't get it to respond then there is possibly an issue with the wiring going into the brake assembly which you can test using a circuit tester like # PTW2993.... view full answer...
Go To Results