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Trailer Taillights Do Not Work When Connected to 2001 Ford Van 6-Way Connector  

Question:

no lights on new tail lights checked conductivity of female auto side receptical all colors including larger white extra ground ground tested positive smaller white, ground, failed found parted white ground wire in flex conduit but could not find where this wire attaches to receptical as all screws in body of connection were filled QUESTION: where does the white wire connect to the recptical? to the keeper screw that retains the connections? to the screw that retains the larger spare white ground? i cant seem to figure out where this wire grounds

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Expert Reply:

The white ground wire should attach to the pin on the vehicle 6-way connector that is located at the 2-oclock position. Please take a look at the photo provided; this is labelled to show to which pin the ground wire should attach. Since you have two white ground wires, it sounds like a second ground jumper wire has been added to provide a better ground connection. A ground jumper wire should connect on one end to the same spot on the frame as the main ground wire and the other end to another clean bare metal spot on the frame.

A bad ground connection could easily be the cause for your trailer tail lights not working. It is important to use at least a 12-gauge wire. This ground wire must be firmly attached to both the female vehicle-side 6-way connector (such as part # PK11609) and to the vehicle frame on the other end.

It is vital that the points on the van frame where you attach the white ground wire be clean, unpainted and free of grease and rust; the ground wire must be very firmly attached to this clean surface to ensure a proper ground connection.

Once you have confirmed a solid ground connection between the 6-way and vehicle frame, I suggest you also check that the brown taillight wire is securely attached to the appropriate pin on the 6-way. Again, if you refer to the picture provided you will see the brown tail light wire attaches to the pin at the 12-oclock position.

At this point I suggest you use a circuit tester, such as # PTW2979, to test each pin at the 6-way on your tow vehicle for a correct signal when each function is activated (left turn, brake, right turn, etc). A helper will make this process easier. Be sure to ground the tester and test one pin at a time with each vehicle light function activated. If all pins on the vehicle 6-way have the correct signal, and your trailer tail lights still do not work, then next test the brown tail light wire at the rear of your trailer. If it has a signal then the problem may be in your taillights. If it does not have a signal, then the problem may be in your trailer wiring. I have linked a video showing the process of testing with the Quickee.

It is not uncommon for trailer wiring to develop wear spots on the insulation on any parts that might rub the frame. Vibration from normal use can cause a wire to rub enough to wear off the insulation and cause a short. Also, your trailer side connector can be checked for signs of corrosion, which can appear as a greenish or whitish film. The connector does not have to look rusty to have a corrosion issue. Clean (or replace if necessary) any connector showing signs of corrosion. I also suggest using a dielectric grease, such as part # 11755, to protect your connections from moisture.

Please take a look at the included article on trailer wiring that provides useful troubleshooting tips.

expert reply by:
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Adam R
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Graham

3/9/2013

we a friend hellped me figured it out when i bought a new coupler and re-did both the trailer side and the van side of the wiring. also when i installed all the lights, 8 clearance lights, stopetail/turn lights, and license light i drilled 1/4 20 mounting holes and tapped the holes and used brass machine screws with brass washers and stainless locking washers using a common white wire to all the lights. idontthink i will have any problems with the grounds.

Patrick B.

4/9/2013

Thanks for the information.

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