The air is going somewhere. If you checked all the connections on the LoadLifter 5000 # AL57338 and they're not leaking, you must have a pinched line or cracked air bag. Next step you will need to do the same process with the soap water and find out which line is pinched and or if the bags are cracked and leaking.
If you cannot find the leak and the problem persists, I would just go ahead and replace the components. view full answer...
Your Lippert # LC298707 Electric Stabilizer Jack is also known as the "PSX1" jack. There are a few possible issues at hand and with a bit of testing we can probably narrow in on the malfunction. First I have attached a wiring schematic for this system. Note that there should be an inline fuse between the battery and the switch. Verify that the fuse is not blown using an electrical tester like the Performance Tools # PT89ZR.
If you have power there, then trace the power to the extend/retract... view full answer...
I'm assuming you mean the parking lights on your trailer, and that you're using an aftermarket wiring harness like part # 118362. The most likely culprit is a shorted-out converter box on your trailer wiring harness.
To begin troubleshooting, you'll need to determine if the problem exists in the trailer wiring or with the wiring on the vehicle. With the truck running lights switched on, test the pin on the trailer connector that's fed by the brown wire, using a circuit tester like part... view full answer...
I'd recommend further confirming that you're not getting any brake lights or turn signals on the trailer connector on the Rav 4 by using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 on the trailer connector. Activate the brake lights and turn signals while you're testing and check the pins on the connector being fed by the green and yellow wires. If you're not getting signal on the connector, test the green and yellow wires on the INPUT side of the converter. If you have signal going into, but... view full answer...
Since you said the trailer is brand new that leads me to believe that your brake assemblies are self-adjusting assemblies that just haven't been activated enough times for them to find the right setting and work properly.
What you will want to do is keep repeating the testing process you have done until you feel the brakes start grabbing hard enough to lock the brakes up. They should progressively get strong and stronger with each application of the manual override lever.
Or, if the brake... view full answer...
What you will need to do is use the circuit tester you have like part # PTW2993 and test the right stop/turn circuit from the trailer connector all the way back to the light assembly. There has to be a problem on this circuit between either the connector, the light assembly, or anywhere in between.
I would recommend you test it right after the trailer's connector and then work your way down the circuit towards the assembly testing it periodically to see if you can narrow down where the... view full answer...
I spoke with my Camco rep, and was told that the tanks should automatically switch, but the indicator knob on top of the regulator will not switch itself.
So, If your first tank has been emptied, and the second one is full but no gas is flowing, the regulator is faulty and would need to be replaced. view full answer...
It could be that the Tekonsha Voyager # 39510 that you have is not leveled properly from side to side and that is why you can't get the light to turn orange. You need to make sure that the controller is level completely from side to side. See attached picture.
The other possibility is that you have a short on the brake output circuit of either your trailer or tow vehicle. Typical things that cause this are corrosion on the trailer connectors or an exposed wire somewhere between the brake... view full answer...
There is, but I will warn you it's pretty expensive. The Hopkins Tow Doctor Trailer End Test Unit # HM50928 is designed to test the connector on a trailer for function and would be perfect for what you are trying to do. Check out the review video I attached.
A much more inexpensive option would be to use a jumper wire from a car battery's positive post to put voltage on all of the pins of your trailer's connector.
You would need to test the three male pins next to the female pin. The... view full answer...
In our experience if your battery is healthy you should get back to full charge level using the NOCO Genius Battery Charger and Maintainer # 329-GENIUS5 in no more than a few hours. If it was at 100 it is likely cycling through the maintenance and that requires losing power to charge back up within certain parameters so it doesn't stay at 100 percent and lose effectiveness over time. view full answer...
The first thing that comes to mind is checking to make sure that the connections were made under the hood of your 2004 Chevrolet Silverado. I have attached an article that goes over the step by step instructions.
If these connections were made and the additional fuses are in place but your brakes still aren't functioning, please send me an email and we will continue to try and locate the issue. view full answer...
The interior lights of your trailer would be powered by the 12 volt accessory circuit on the 7-way of your 2010 GMC Sierra. You will want to check the 1:00 position of the 7-way on your truck with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to verify if there is voltage on this pin. If there isn't voltage on this pin you are most likely missing the 40 amp fuse in the power distribution box and/or the circuit under the hood hasn't been completed.
For more info on how to complete the circuit under... view full answer...
A simple way to bypass the confusing wiring of your 2013 Porsche Cayenne would be to run a length of 10 gauge wire from the positive battery post of your vehicle through a 40 amp breaker like part # PK54540 and then back to the 12 volt accessory circuit of your 7-way.
This will give you 12 volts of power without having to mess with the OEM wiring of your vehicle.
I attached a review video and installation instructions for the # TK94FR for you to check out as well. view full answer...
It sounds like the 12 volt accessory circuit of the trailer connector on either the truck or trailer side has shorted out to your brake light or running light circuit and it's activating the circuit all the time.
Typically it's corrosion on the front or the back of trailer connectors that causes this problem so that is where I would start first.
To isolate the problem to either the tow vehicle or the trailer you can use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test for voltage on the... view full answer...
Has your Progressive Dynamics Converter, like part # PD9145A, worked previously or is this the first time that you've hooked it up and it isn't working properly? If this is the first time you've hooked it up then we can check your installation. If you've been using this for a while then we can still check the installation but you might need to replace it if it's been through a lot of use. If you need to replace it then I would go with the same model # PD9145A.
Progressive Dynamics has... view full answer...
The Everchill RV Refrigerator w/ Freezer - 10.7 Cu Ft - 12V # 324-000119 requires at least 11.5v DC to properly work. You can use a voltage meter # PT89ZR to check the voltage running to the outlet and if you're getting less than 11.5v DC you'll need to increase the gauge of your wiring running from the battery to the outlet. I've attached a chart to help you determine the correct wire gauge for your needs.
If you are getting enough voltage to properly run the fridge then you will need... view full answer...
Since the solenoid(s) on your SuperWinch LP8500 Off-Road Winch 8,500 lbs # SW1585202 is clicking, this means it is getting power and operating, so it very well could be a faulty motor. Because your winch has been sitting awhile, I would start by going through each connection to make sure everything is tight and free of corrosion. Then make sure your 12V battery is charged up and ready to go so that the winch has ample power to operate.
After checking those things and the winch still does... view full answer...
The electrical connections for Air Lift Single Needle Gauge Panel with One Paddle Switch # AL26161 are irrelevant to the gauge as far as function goes; the electrical connections are just for the display of the gauge itself. The air lines are the only things that the gauge needs to function in terms of inflating or deflating the air bags. I attached a photo that you can look at to make sure you have the air lines connected to the proper fittings.
If you are still having issues then it... view full answer...
If the manual slide is not working with the brake controller, you need to test the wires going into the brake controller, make sure you have power entering the brake controller on the black wire. On the red wire you will only want power when the brake pedal is pressed. If it is connected correctly it may be a problem with the unit.
If your B1 setting is too high then you need to properly adjust your trailer brakes. I've linked below instructions on how to properly adjust the power to your... view full answer...
There are a number of troubleshooting steps to take if you are having issue with the running lights on your camper. The first thing to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order. If they are, in order to determine the specific problem you will need to purchase a circuit tester if you do not have one - the very handy Cordless Circuit Tester # PTW2979 - and test the connector on your vehicle after disconnecting... view full answer...
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