A 4-pole trailer wiring harness like Curt plug-and-play # C55486 interacts with a vehicle's electronics only in three circuits: brake lights, running lights and turn signals. What the harness does is take the separate stop and turn signals from the car and combine them for the trailer, which uses the same light for stop and turn functions.
A wiring harness has no direct interaction with other vehicle systems like wipers, radio and air conditioning. It is possible that a damaged harness... view full answer...
If you were to run the power wire of the Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring # 118578 to anywhere but the positive post of your vehicle battery you would void the warranty of the harness and could potentially damage the wiring of your RAV4 in the event of a short on the trailer wiring.
The purpose of the battery wire being run to the battery is so that it bypasses the delicate vehicle wiring and eliminates the potential threat of the trailer wiring damaging the vehicle's wiring. It draws... view full answer...
Sometimes, if you leave the doors of the vehicle open long enough while installing the harness it can drain the battery. It has happened here to our installers before. It could be something that simple.
If you had the negative battery cable disconnected prior to installation then it may have caused a sort of reset for the computer on your 2010 Toyota RAV4 and that could have been why it behaved the way it did.
There is nothing in wiring harness # 118412 that would cause the vehicle not... view full answer...
You do not want to put any stress or weight on that spoiler at the back of your 2016 Toyota RAV4. I definitely recommend a hitch.
To carry 4 bikes, I recommend trailer hitch # e98864. Then you could use a 4-bike rack such as the Hitching Post Pro # TH934XTR or the budget-friendly Curt # C18030. A hitch mount bike rack also keeps the bikes and the rack off of the vehicle unlike a trunk mount rack. I have linked some videos of the bike racks and hitch for you.
If you will be carrying any... view full answer...
You are correct that the yellow wire exiting your RAV4's wiring harness should not be hot at all times. This wire should carry an output signal only when the yellow wire on the left-hand input side is carrying a signal from the RAV4's left taillight.
Based on your testing results the harness is damaged and requires replacement with a unit like the Curt # C56165 or the TowReady # 118412. I suggest the Curt for its higher current output capacity. A helpful article and install video are linked... view full answer...
It sounds like there is a ground issue on the trailer. Typically, when there is erratic taillight behavior it is because something is not grounded correctly on the trailer. Especially since the guys at the trailer rental place tested the 4-way and said it was working correctly.
To rule this out you could try hooking the 4-way of your 2011 Toyota RAV4 to a different trailer and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away, you know that it was the trailer and the Tow Ready Custom... view full answer...
If the jack light is working but the motor won't that means that the jack is getting power so we can rule out the fuse/breaker being the problem. It is possible that the battery the jack is connected to has enough power to run the light but not the motor. The battery may need to be charged or replaced. A local auto parts store can test the battery.
Another possible cause is a weak ground. The light doesn't need to have the best ground but the motor which draws more amperage does need a... view full answer...
Sometimes that can happen when using a powered converter such as # 118412 for your 2008 Toyota RAV4. If you pull out the fuse on the wiring harness power wire and the 4-Way no longer shows power then that would indicate exactly that.
It could also be a short. But it really depends on how much power is coming through. A little power, just a few volts, would not indicate a short necessarily. If you are using a volt meter such as # PT89ZR that is the best way to determine how much voltage... view full answer...
Modulites can occasionally short out. I would recommend using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test the wires going into the converter box. Test only the wires that go to the taillight assemblies, not the red wire that runs to the battery. If you show no power going into the converter box from the taillights, then something in the converter box has shorted out and the harness will need to be replaced.
If you determine that the converter has shorted out and needs to be replaced,... view full answer...
The Hopkins 4-pole harness we offer for your RAV4 is part # HM11141820 and this installs by plugging in at your taillight wiring connectors and via a single 12V power wire connection at your vehicle battery. If your vehicle taillights failed after these harness installations this suggests a problem in the converter module itself or a short in the connectors/wiring between the vehicle and the module. The good new is that the unit did what it was intended to - fail before it allowed any damage... view full answer...
You do not want to modify the hitch or vehicle to get the hitch to fit. Doing so can do more harm than good. There are a couple of things you can try. First, try starting the installation with the bolt hole that is giving you trouble. It could be that the hitch and/or vehicle will better allow the installation if you changed the order of what bolts are installed when.
Also, leave the bolts loose enough so that you can move the hitch a little. This little bit of play may be all you need... view full answer...
What I recommend is to remove everything that came with the Tow Ready wiring harness, # 118412, and then start the installation again as if it was the first time. It could be that you missed something and that by going through the steps again will reveal the issue.
Included in the kit is a length of wire to run a power wire to the engine bay and connect to the positive battery post. It also makes access to the fuse for this power line easier since you can have it readily accessible in... view full answer...
In order to remove that panel, there will be a 10 millimeter nut that needs to be removed using a 10 millimeter socket. Towards the back of the bumper, there are two push pin fasteners that are holding it in, that will need to be removed. You can use a flat head screwdriver or trim panel tool. When you see two small notches on the push pins, pop out the center section to take the tension off. The pop out the outer ring on the push pin and remove it all the way. Now you can pull the panel... view full answer...
The issue you are having with the lack of voltage from your 4-way connector on your 1999 Toyota RAV4 could be the result of a bad ground.
Start your troubleshooting by checking the connectors for dirt or corrosion. Next, you will want to check the ground on the vehicle-side connector. It should be attached to a clean bare metal surface on the vehicle frame. Then check the trailer-side main ground. It should also be attached to a clean bare metal surface on the trailer frame.
You may... view full answer...
The first thing to check is always the ground wire, if the ground is bad you can see all sorts of strange behaviors on the trailer lights.
You will also want to check the grounds on the trailer wiring also just to rule out the trailer causing the problems.
The best way to test the box would be to get a circuit tester like the part # 3808 and test the wires going into the box and then out the other side.
I would start on the left blinker signal wire on the input side of the box. You will... view full answer...
The first thing I would check is the fuse that came with the Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring, # 118412. If it is not inserted all of the way or is blown, the converter will not work. Make sure the power wire for the converter is attached to the positive battery terminal via the in line fuse holder and fuse. No other 12 volt connection should be used. Make sure the white ground wire is attached to a bare metal surface.
On the 2009 Toyota RAV4, there are 2 sets of connectors behind the... view full answer...
Thank you for your purchase of the etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver # e98864 for your 2012 Toyota RAV4!
The RockyMounts BackStage Bike Rack # RKY10002 is a great bike rack but it does stick out a bit further than a standard bike rack since it has that swinging arm. I have some options for you but the best thing you can do with your current setup is to enter and exit your driveway diagonally to help with that clearance.
You can add a high-low adapter but these will reduce the weight capacity... view full answer...
It sounds like there is a problem with the trailer wiring that you installed on your RAV4. I would start by removing the trailer connector and checking each wiring connector to make sure a pin was not bent of broken when installing the harness, causing a short.
Next, without the trailer connected, test the wires going into the converter on both sides with a circuit tester to see if power is going into the converter properly with each signal activated and the tail lights on, and coming... view full answer...
If you are getting intermittent power the potential issue with the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C56165 on your 2007 Toyota RAV4 the first thing to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order. The other thing that is going to be the problem is your ground. You need to make sure your grounds are attached to bare metal surfaces and free of any paint, dirt or... view full answer...
If the lights on the trailer are working fine on another vehicle, then the issue is most likely with the RAV4 wiring harness, # 11839. To test it you will need a circuit tester such as # PTW2992. You will need to have someone sit in the RAV4 and run through the various light functions while you test with the circuit tester. I have included a link to a video showing how this is done.
If you have the same or a similar problem when testing, then the issue could either be inside the converter... view full answer...
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