Your 2020 Audi Q7 has a trailer mode and will only send power through the 7-way charge line when it senses a trailer that requires 12v power is connected. This is why the Curt Echo # C51180 will only start to receive power on your camper when the 7-way is plugged in.
If your boat trailer uses an electric brake system there should be a breakaway battery that is tied to the 7-way charge line that will ensure the battery is kept charged. If you do not have a breakaway battery and do have... view full answer...
The Ultra Faucets RV Shower Valve w/ Vacuum Breaker - Single Lever Handle - Brushed Nickel # 277-000024 has that offset hole in the vacuum breaker diverter on purpose. The vacuum breaker on this shower valve lets you attach a handheld shower set and it has an anti-siphon device that will prevent the backflow contamination of your clean water supply. The anti-siphon device consists of an air hole that will drain water back out of the hose. You will want to make sure the washer does not... view full answer...
The Lippert Components High-Speed Power Stabilizer Jack - Black Waterproof Switch Kit - 30" Lift # LC298707 that is extended can use a hand crank to manually retract the stabilizing legs. You can use the Replacement Manual Crank Handle for Lippert Components 5th Wheel RV Landing Gear # LC119226 to do this.
It sounds like you have a power issue, so I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If you have checked the motor and the switch, then it sounds like the motor has gone bad... view full answer...
It sounds like you may not have power getting back to the camera. Start the truck. Check the plug on the truck to make sure you have power coming from all the pins except one. One will be ground. Have someone run through the functions on the truck while someone test the pins. If you have power there, plug your camper into the truck and make sure all of the lights are working. Run through all of the functions again with the camper connected. If all that is good, check the factory wire on... view full answer...
Since your brake controller is a Hopkins brake controller my initial reaction is that the controller has an internal problem as they are notorious for shorting out and behaving strangely. We can test your setup though to determine if the problem happens to be the wiring or the controller.
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit tester like... view full answer...
Since you have already checked your fuses you will need to trace the 12 volt wire from the 7-way on your 2017 Ram 1500 and check it for any damage or crimps; you will need Cordless Circuit Tester # PTW2979 for this to check the wiring along different points and then when you find the issue you can repair or replace it.
Other wise, the best option and what will resolve the issue is to run your own # 10-1-1 wire from your 7-way to the battery via Circuit Breaker # PK54530 view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Lippert who said that if you press the silver button on the Touchscreen Remote # LC358601 10 times (prior to entering any code) then the remote will go into a calibration mode. If this doesn't fix your problem then the remote is bad and it needs to be replaced. view full answer...
I know you said you checked the fuses but there are a few different fuse boxes on your 2005 Ford F-250. The fuse box you are looking for is called the power distribution center and this is located next to the engine under the hood of your truck. In this fuse box the one you will be looking for is a 20 amp and is located in cavity #9. There are also two relays you need to check as well, cavity #201 and cavity #202.
If all fuses and relays check out and you have inspected all the visible... view full answer...
Sounds like your B and W Companion Slider part # BWRVK3400 is stuck in the gooseneck ball shank of your truck bed. What we normally recommend when this happens is to connect to a fifth wheel trailer like you normally would, and then with the pin pulled out from the shank of the gooseneck hitch use the landing gear jacks to see if you can lift the hitch out of the truck bed. This is a great way to gain a mechanical advantage over the problem.
Once you get it out I'd recommend greasing... view full answer...
If your Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Controller # TK90160 isn't detecting a connection with the trailer (and sometimes is when there isn't a trailer....) then the first thing I recommend looking at is the 7-Way connector on both the truck and trailer. Just visually inspect both connectors and look for any debris or corrosion inside/around the pins that may need to be cleaned out.
A lot of times some rust or debris can prevent a good connection between the trailer and cause issues when a trailer... view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at Lippert who said that the light function that your New-Style Linc Analog Remote # LC292614 activate will have a relay or fuse. Since everything else is working the relay/fuse is likely bad and needs to be replaced. You will need to find where this is located in regards to the control panel for your specific application. view full answer...
This can be frustrating, but I have a solution for you. If your hitch has a lip or collar around the opening, the Roadmaster Quiet Hitch # RM-061 is going to be perfect for you. You can use this clamp when towing a load, carrying a bike rack and also when you don't have anything attached to your ball mount.
If your hitch doesn't have a lip or collar around the opening, I recommend going with the Pro Series Anti-Rattle Device for 2" Hitches # PS63091 . This will slip on to your ball mount... view full answer...
I spoke with Furrion about the issue you are having and they said to have you try "hitting the TV button and then hitting the red power button" to see if that fixes the issue. If not, let me know and we can go from there. view full answer...
Since you have tested your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 brake controller on two separate trucks the problem is likely on the trailer side although you should go over each of the troubleshooting steps just to make sure.
To test the brake controller, sever the blue wire a couple inches from the back of your controller. Then use a Circuit Tester like # PTW2979 to test the end of the blue wire coming out of the Primus IQ It should only have power when you apply the manual override; if it... view full answer...
I'm unsure of what you have going on there. Did you receive 4 locks with a common lock number with 4 keys of another lock number? Or did you have two locks with the one number and two with the other? Or 3 with 1 number and the remaining lock with the other key number?
Do all the keys open all the locks?
The keys and locks can become worn over time, once this happens the tumblers can be more forgiving. Manufacturing defects such as burrs left on the key can also allow them to open locks... view full answer...
From what you described it sounds like you need to install the Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit # RM-88400.
If your towed vehicle is the 2014 Jeep Wrangler that you input for your vehicle information then this makes sense. Typically we recommend disconnecting the battery when flat towing this vehicle. If you were to disconnect the battery then your SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO # SM99251 wouldn't cause the brakes to pulse when your blinker is used on your motorhome.
When I spoke with my contact... view full answer...
According to the owner's manual for your 2011 Ford F-250 or F-350 the relay in location 74 is for the trailer left hand stop and turn (driver's side) and relay 75 is for the trailer right hand stop and turn (passenger side).
The 4x4 shift motor is fuse 84.
The 4x4 electronic lock is fuse 40.
The 4x4 hub lock is fuse 39.
The 4x4 Module is fuse 53.
The Powertrain Control Module or Electronic Control Module is Relay 38.
The Transmission Control Module is fuse 46.
We have lots of custom... view full answer...
If your Dutton-Lainson StrongArm Electric Winch # DL25019 is blowing the fuse when you are pulling the line in there are a few things to check.
First of all look at the motor wire and check for any places where the insulation is damaged, especially where they make contact with the winch frame. The next thing that we would normally check is the motor but since it sounds like you have it working one way then I believe you either have it overloaded or you need to replace one of the switches.
Inspect... view full answer...
With two brown wires in your photo it indicates a wishbone harness basically allowing running lights to be sent to each side from the coupler location instead of using a jump wire from one side to the other. This is very common to use with boat and personal watercraft trailers.
It looks like the end of the connection has where the dog chewed the wires and if so, you can simply use the Hopkins Endurance Quick-Fix Replacement 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector w LED Test Lights - Trailer End... view full answer...
The Tekonsha 7-Way, RV-Style Tester for Brake Controllers # 6562 doesn't always work with every brake controller we've found. There's a chance it may work on your truck but since I can't guarantee that it's hard for me to recommend this for you based on what you are looking for. If your OEM brake controller fuse keeps blowing when you connect a trailer to it and apply the brakes it's most likely the trailer having a short. This is commonly where the problem is and it's typically exposed... view full answer...
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