To power the lightbar on your bike rack you'll need to install a second 4-pole connector # 18002 after the diodes to get the braking and turn signals from your motorhome to transfer to the bike rack as well. You'll wire it in the following fashion:
Green: Right turn/brake light.
Yellow: Left turn/brake light.
Brown: Tail/running lights.
White: Ground wire or ground it to the frame.
Once completed this 4-pole will be active and will allow you to connect and power your bike rack's lightbar. view full answer...
My guess is that your Escape was not equipped with the Tow Package from the factory. The plug for the Hoppy wiring harness will be present behind the bumper, but unless the Escape has the tow package it will NOT be active. To activate, a relay will need to be placed into the wiring block located behind the dash. From what I understand, the relay would need to be obtained from your Ford Dealer.
If your Escape is not equipped with the Tow Package, your best bet would be to use the T-1 Vehicle... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Curt regarding the issue you're having, and according to the folks at Curt what you have going on is almost certainly coincidental as the proper installation of the # C56320 wouldn't have any impact on the auto headlamp feature of your Escape. The functions are nowhere near related.
I'd recommend looking over the linked installation video and instructions to confirm the installation was done correctly. One possible cause would be if the 12V circuit that is supposed... view full answer...
If the turn signals on your trailer aren't working after installing the T-One # 118802 on your 2018 Ford Escape it sounds like your trailer may have separate lighting which means the stop and turn circuit aren't combined like they are on your Escape. To remedy this you need the Converter # 118158 which takes your combined wiring and separates those functions to match your trailer.
If the issue is something else please let me know and I can help you troubleshoot further. view full answer...
The hyper flashing you're experiencing is caused becasue the LED lights draw much less power than incandescent lights. So essentially the vehicle senses the low power draw and believes a bulb has burned out.
Installing the load resistors # DI34ZR on the turn signal circuits will add more resistance and prevent the hyper flashing. I've linked the insallation instructions of the load resistors for you as well. view full answer...
Curt trailer wiring harness # C55255 is designed to fit as long as your 2004 Ford Escape came with the factory tow package. If it did not, even if the connector is present in the vehicle to plug in this harness, it may not be fully functional.
To determine if this is the issue you can use a circuit tester such as # PTW2992 to test the 4-Way. If you only have running lights and no brake or turn signal functions, then this is likely the case. You can try checking the vehicle owner's manual... view full answer...
We will need to determine where the problem is. To do this you will need a circuit tester such as # PTW2993. Test the vehicle side connector with the circuit tester while someone sits in the 2010 Ford Escape and activates the lighting functions (turn signals, brake lights, and running lights) while you test the connector.
If there is no power on the 4-Way when performing the test, then perform the same test only this time test the wires going into the converter from the Escape (instead... view full answer...
The first step for troubleshooting the trailer turn signal lights is to test the vehicle side connector. If you are not getting any power on this circuit then you will need to check the fuse box for any blown fuses. If you have an aftermarket trailer wiring harness then test the turn signal wires before and after the converter box to ensure the signal is both entering and leaving. Finally, check the ground for the vehicle side trailer connector.
If you do get power to the vehicle side... view full answer...
You may have a ground problem. In your situation, you have a ground that is strong enough to provide some lighting functions but not all. This is called a weak ground. When the taillights and brake lights are used at the same time, it creates the maximum amp load of the lights on the trailer. If a ground problem exists, it will show at this point. The places to check grounds are as follows:
1. The connector on the vehicle should have a ground wire secured tightly to a clean surface on the... view full answer...
You are likely going to run into this problem with any brake controller on your 2015 Ford Escape. A brake controller needs that 12 volt input from the brake switch so if it steps down the voltage then it is going to be an issue with any brake controller.
There is also more than one wire that can carry the brake signal at the brake switch. Make sure you are using the one that only has power when the pedal is pushed and not also when the head lights or turn signals are on.
The other option... view full answer...
This can occur with some Curt wiring harnesses. On a trailer with LED lights the lights may be dimly lit when the vehicle is off because the harness has a direct connection to the battery and there is some power to the 4-Way all the time.
If the lights are coming on as bright as normal the first thing, I would check would be the 4-way trailer connector that is on your both of your vehicles. It sounds like the problem is in your trailer, but it is still a good idea to rule out the vehicles... view full answer...
This is a very common issue with the vehicles that have the foot sensors on the rear bumper so that you can open the back hatch by sweeping your foot.
I spoke with one of our manufacturers not that long ago and they said that when vehicles which use the foot sensor, like your 2017 Ford Escape, have a trailer hitch receiver installed, like the Draw-Tite # 75758, you won't be able to sweep your foot like normal. Since there is metal covering some of the sensor, you will have to kick your... view full answer...
If the factory trailer wiring harness in your 2014 Ford Escape does not function correctly with the LED lights on your trailer you can correct this issue by installing load resistors at each of the trailer lights. You do not need to replace the factory harness unless it has damage. Usually factory converter harnesses will be installed under dash.
High-efficiency LED lights can have this issue because they draw so little power. That can cause the converter to not sense them correctly.
The... view full answer...
The issue you are experiencing is likely a bad ground connection. It sounds like it worked, then didn't, and now works again which definitely sounds like the ground connection. I recommend checking your main ground connection on your boat trailer if there is a consistant spot on your frame. If not, then I recommend checking the ground connection at your tail lights. There is sometimes a separate ground wire for each light and other times the ground is through the mounting hardware on... view full answer...
The correct Tekonsha T-One Harness for your 2012 Ford Escape without the factory tow package is the part # 118551. If this is what you have installed then there are a couple of things you will want to look at.
Please just let me know if I'm wrong but it sounds like it's the lights on your Escape that aren't working properly with the harness installed and not the trailer lights. The first thing I recommend checking is the hot lead that should be run up to the Escape's battery via the included... view full answer...
On your 2017 Ford Escape you can best remove the hardware from your frame by basically reverse installing the hitch. This would include using the fish wire to keep track of your bolts to ensure they don't remain in the frame.
If you were to lose a bolt in the frame you would basically use the same access hole used for installation to attempt to pull the loose hardware out the frame using whatever materials you have access to for assistance.
I've attached a video as well as the installation... view full answer...
You can test to see if there is power on that blue wire. You will need someone to sit in the 2013 Ford Escape and apply the manual override on the brake controller full. Then, using your meter or circuit tester, test the pin on the 7-Way in the 5 oclock position. If it shows power at the connector then everything is fine on the vehicle side.
You might want to check the trailer side connector because dirt and corrosion could be the problem. Make sure that the connector is clean inside and... view full answer...
The Tow Ready T-One wiring harness you referenced, part # 118566, is indeed very similar to the 4-pole wiring harness you purchased from etrailer in October 2013, which is a part from Curt. Thank you for that purchase and also for your hitch purchase.
A 4-pole wiring harness such as what you have carries power only for the trailer's stop, turn and taillights. The problem you are having with all trailer lights staying on continuously once the trailer is plugged in to the Escape suggests... view full answer...
Pulling the breakaway pin is not the correct way to test the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System # RM-8700 in your 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid. You will need to have everything installed and hooked up on both the vehicle and motorhome side. You will also need to have the motorhome running when you perform the test, which is done by pressing the brake pedal.
I have also included the installation instructions, the test process starts on page 16. If you perform all of this and... view full answer...
It sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on what you're dealing with. You're correct, the green is right turn/brake, yellow is left turn/brake, black/green is right taillight and black/yellow is left taillight. The remaining wires are almost certainly grounds. I'm guessing you're not the original owner of the trailer or the person who wired it last time.
Rather than grounding each trailer lamp directly to the trailer frame by its mounting studs or individual ground wires connected... view full answer...
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