It sounds like the adjustment mechanism is faulty on your brake assembly. When the brake shoes on self-adjusting brakes move too far before they touch the drums there is a pulley that spins the adjustment wheel. This takes the brake shoes out further until they are properly adjusted. I would say your brake assembly continues to spin the adjustment wheel even when the brake shoes make contact. Whatever the case may be, it is an issue with the brake assembly itself.
The solution in this... view full answer...
Using the wrong tire pressure can cause the problems you described but it sounds like that's not your issue. I wouldn't blame it on tire scrubbing like you mentioned either. The other things to check is age (probably not case since it sounds like your tires are newer), weight capacity, and speed rating. view full answer...
From what you stated it sounds like you have the touch panel that has the LCI logo in the middle that is flashing green and the red lights down the left hand side with the "engage park brake" illuminated in red.
Given the information about the fog lights flashing as well and the fact that you have engaged the parking brake but the controller is saying that you have not, it is likely that you have a wiring issue. Most likely being a faulty ground, when the controller is looking for the... view full answer...
That is exactly what it sounds like is going on. for your situation I recommend checking the wiring on the back of the switch to make sure it's clean and has solid connections. If it looks like it needs to be replaced then you just need the switch itself:
- Black Switch # LC285500
- White Switch # LC285499
Just be sure to follow the wiring instructions that come with the switch if you end up replacing it. view full answer...
There is a sensor that is intended for obstruction detection that will stop the extending and retract if it were to hit an obstacle. It sounds like this is malfunctioning as it shouldn't detect stepping pressure when fully extended as an obstacle and even so should retract fully not 50%.
If your step is fully extending and retracting without this pressure, we can eliminate the possibility of a switch issue on the door. We can also eliminate the motor and gearing. That leaves the control... view full answer...
I spoke with the folks at Lippert who tell me that your issue sounds like a ground problem. The fact that you can get the motors to operate independently of the coach by directly attaching them to a battery would tend to confirm a poor ground connection. I've provided a wiring diagram for the Lippert PSX1 stabilizer. view full answer...
I am assuming you are testing while using the manual override. It should still send power with the manual override even with the trailer disconnected. If you were using the brakes on your motorhome then the problem is that you are using a proportional controller but you aren't moving so there will be no brake output. Based on the fact that the tester works for the other functions it is unlikely that the tester is failing.
Since this is a new brake controller and wiring harness, it is also... view full answer...
Any trailer brake controller, if it is functioning correctly, will output the power level you have selected via its power and boost controls. This is true for both the time-delay type and for the often-preferred proportional type, such as the prodigy P2 # 90885.
Since the problem seems to have self-corrected after you washed the trailer this makes me suspect that some sort of wiring problem on the trailer is the cause. You do not mention if the controller's adjustment capability returned... view full answer...
Although I don't have a wiring schematic for your 1986 Coachman Crusader travel trailer, I can help you determine the color coding based on function. Most of the time, the running light function is brown in color, but that isn't always the case. The best way to check is to use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the function at your vehicle side connection first. I've attached an article to assist with the location.
If that isn't working, then there is often a parking light fuse... view full answer...
When installing the Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer # RM-RBK24-RSSC you don't want it to be too tight against the brackets to where it's deforming the bushings, but you do want it to be snug. You shouldn't be able to spin it freely. I spoke with my tech contact over at Roadmaster and he mentioned that if the bushings are installed backwards, this will cause the stabilizer to be loose and spin freely, so that would be the main thing to check. You can refer to Figure 4 on the instructions... view full answer...
It sounds like you've done a great job of reducing your tire blowout risks already so I would say this likely has more to do with the age or condition of that specific ST18580R13 tire. A weight distribution system like the Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution System w/ 4-Point Sway Control # EQ37040ET should not shift excessive weight to your rear tires if it's an appropriate system for your tow setup. If it's a much higher capacity than necessary then you may be on to something there as that... view full answer...
Typically when you hear the clicking sound it is the motor # LC183058 or possibly the control module # LC334850. Since you have replaced these and the sensor # LC301694 the only other possibility is the wiring. Check your ground and make sure it is secure and undamaged. If it isn't the ground it is the power which you can check with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. It is possible there is a loose connection or the wire is damaged and needs to be repaired/replaced. view full answer...
Yes, going to a new lock/latch for your RV entry door like the part # 295-000019 will be a great solution. Your latch does sound like it's worn out or possibly damaged which is making it hard to use but this replacement will be easy to use and won't require constant lubrication. view full answer...
It sounds like the fridge is operating normally other than the flashing temperature light.
The temperature light on your Everchill RV Refrigerator w/ Freezer # 324-000119 is likely flashing because of a lack of full power to the fridge. The fridge requires 11 amps. It is likely trying to use more power than what is available, which is why the lights are flashing but the compressor is still running. That would be why you're not seeing a loss of cooling. You can try backing the temperature... view full answer...
The only real troubleshooting you can do with a radio is to check that all connections are properly secure and to check the power. Typically there is a fuse on the power wire that you can check, but since you said it powers on the fuse is most likely fine. From there you can check the voltage to see if the stereo is getting a full 12 volts with a multimeter # PT89ZR. If not then the power source is the issue.
If it is getting a full 12 volts then the stereo may have internal damage and... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Lippert and they informed me that you need to check that you are getting 1.5 to 3 amps coming from the control module. If you are, then test the brake by adding power and ground to the brake leads. (polarity doesn’t matter). I’m suspecting that the brake is bad and not releasing or the brake pad is seized to the pressure plate.
I have attached a wiring diagram for you. Please let me know what you come back with and the part number of your steps if replacement parts... view full answer...
Some voltage drop off as power travels to each brake assembly on the trailer can be normal (within 1-2 volts of drop), especially if you have a longer trailer . If you are testing the brake output wires right before the assemblies themselves and getting 10.4 volts then this probably isn't an issue. Also make sure when you're testing for voltage that you have the brake controller set to max power and you're using the manual override (not stepping on the brake pedal).
Something else that... view full answer...
In order to troubleshoot your Atwood G6A-7 Water Heater you will need to take the unit into a dealer for service. From there, a trained RV technician can properly diagnose and remedy the issue. If it needs replaced, the best replacement option we offer is tankless, the Furrion RV Tankless Water Heater part # FR68SR. It won't be a direct replacement but still pretty easy nonetheless as they are very similar. That said, you won't have to worry about enlarging the cutout or anything like that,... view full answer...
I would start by checking your power source for the Putco Red Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar # P92010-60 as well as the inline fuse for it. There should be a fuse holder on the light bar's wiring that you can check and then I would test the truck's connector with a tester # PTW2993 with each light function to see if a fuse blew on the truck and is no longer sending power back to the light bar. view full answer...
The breakaway setup should still activate the brakes to the point you can hear the magnets hum. The fact you can't hear yours means your setup isn't working currently. It's possible you have a dead breakaway battery or the wiring has issues but I attached a help article on troubleshooting breakaway systems for you to check out as well. view full answer...
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