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2012 Mazda 5 Trailer Hitch Installation And Review Videos

     

Best 2012 Mazda 5 Trailer Hitch Options- Video

Best 2012 Mazda 5 Trailer Hitch Options

Today we're going to be taking a look at the best hitch options for your 2012 Mazda 5. Here on top we have the CURT. Here on the bottom we have the Draw-Tite. Let's go over some of the differences. One of the main noticeable differences is how they install. You notice that this one's got two plates. more


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2/27/2019 9:37:13 AM



Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Mazda 5 - Draw-Tite- Video

Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Mazda 5 - Draw-Tite

Today, on our 2012 Mazda5, we'll be installing a Draw-Tite Sportframe trailer hitch receiver, and a class one with an inch-and-a quarter opening part number 24874. Here's what our hitch looks like installed on our vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and give you a couple measurements in helping you choose some accessories for your hitch, such as a bicycle rack or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the outermost edge of the bumper is approximately 4 3/4", and from the top of the opening in the receiver to the ground, is approximately 12 1/2". Now let's go ahead and install our hitch. To begin with, we're going to need to remove two plastic rivets underneath the rear fascia of the vehicle. We will be re-installing these rivets once the trailer hitch is installed. To remove these rivets, a large flat-head screwdriver, or a trim panel removal tool works well. You simply slide it in the center portion of the push-in rivet, pulling downward, which will allow the rivet to release from the rear fascia. Now, let's go ahead and point out some of the hardware mounting locations that we'll be using. On the passenger side, there's two holes that we'll be feeding a carriage bolt and a spacer block using afish-wire technique into the frame. To gain access though, we're going to need to drill out this small hole right here to approximately one inch. A quick tech tip: It's also a good idea anywherewhere you had to drill into the frame of the vehicle, to use a little paint to cover up any exposed metal to keep this area from becoming a rust area. Now, we went ahead and used a one-inch hole saw, and we still had to do a little bit of grinding on the side to allow the spacer block to fit all the way up into the frame. more


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10/25/2013 4:37:43 AM



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