Thank you for the photos!
The T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118498 you purchased is for a 2016 Toyota Sienna SE, but the connectors you have in your photos look like you have a non-SE model so you'll need the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C56261 instead.
If you look at the connector photos for the Curt wiring they seem to match with the photos you sent in. I'm also linking an installation video on a 2016 Sienna (non-SE) for you to check out. view full answer...
For your Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver- Class II - 1-1/4" # C12065 on the 2004 Toyota Sienna, the weld nuts being stripped out will require tapping the weld nuts and using larger bolts. The # RHK kit will give you the hardware that came with the hitch to fit the current weld nuts. You will need to get a tap locally and get Grade 8 bolts to fit that new thread size. view full answer...
In order to troubleshoot the left side of your trailer's lights not working you'll need to use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the connector on your '05 Sienna AFTER disconnecting it from your trailer. Check the wiring going into your harness from your taillights to see if those wires are carrying the correct signals, if not then the issue is with the vehicle wiring. If the signals going to your harness are okay, you'll need to test the signals coming out of the harness, and... view full answer...
You have narrowed your problem down to your tow vehicle. Since your camper's lights work when it is hooked up to a different tow vehicle, it is on your vehicle side. You will need to check the connections of your Adapter 4-Pole to 7-Pole and 4-Pole, part # 37185. This will require a circuit tester, part # PTW2992. I would check your grounds to make sure they are touching bare metal, paint can interfere with this connection. You can use the circuit tester to check the outputs from your 4-way... view full answer...
The problem you're having with Curt Wiring Harness # C56106 on your 2012 Toyota Sienna could be the converter box but first check the ground connection. Make sure it's grounded to a clean bare metal location on the van's frame. Since it worked before it's probably in a good spot but might just need to be cleaned which is an easy fix.
If the ground is good, you can test the converter box to be sure that's the issue. Use a circuit tester like # PTW2979 and test the yellow wire before... view full answer...
When you install a hitch on a vehicle you end up bracing the rear chassis of the vehicle as the hitch attaches to both sides of the frame and provides basically like a cross-bracing. What that can end up doing is causing the vehicle to have a stiffer feel to it. When torqueing the hitch down it can also cause the frame to position in a slightly different manner which can cause different interior or exterior parts to contact in a different way.
Basically what I am trying to say is that... view full answer...
The etrailer Trailer Hitch Receiver # e98837 which fits your 2010 Toyota Sienna uses six M12 - 1.25 x 40 hex bolts to attach the receiver to the frame. This same hitch is confirmed to fit the 2004-2020 model years. It is possible the threaded holes on your frame could have some dirt or corrosion built up inside the threads which is preventing the installation. You can try using a Brush # 814092 with some penetrating oil to clean out the threads, otherwise you may need to get a tap to chase... view full answer...
It sounds like you have corrosion compacted in the weldnuts on your 2009 Toyota Sienna. All you can do is spray the lubricant, let it sit from about 15 minutes, and then go at the weldnuts with a wire brush. Do this repeatedly.
If that doesn't help you will likely have to use a thread tapper. An auto parts store can usually loan out a tap and die set. Just make sure that the set has the right M12 size and thread pattern to match the bolts.
If you haven't used a thread tapper before then... view full answer...
I am sorry to hear you are having problems towing your boat with your 2010 Toyota Sienna. There are a couple of solutions that may work for you. The best and safest way to eliminate the sag at the rear of your vehicle, that occurs when the boat trailer is hooked up, is to use weight distribution.
Weight distribution will transfer the tongue weight from the trailer tongue to the vehicle and boat trailer axles and keep the boat trailer towing level, which will eliminate the bottoming out... view full answer...
Thank you for your detailed explanation of the issue and what you have already attempted. Often when you are not getting a signal to the green and yellow wires it is an indication of an issue with the ground connection, even though you did the appropriate by jumpering your ground due to the two-piece frame. You seem thorough enough that it's possible you have already done this, but if not then check your ground connections, ensuing they are secure and attached to bare metal that is clean... view full answer...
On the back of the connector where the wires attach check for dirt and corrosion and clean any that you find. You may need a new connection there so cut the wire, strip off some of the insulation, and reconnect after cleaning the connector. Do this for any of the wires that appear to need it.
Also check the main ground from the connector to the vehicle. It should be attached to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface. You can also try moving the ground to a different location on... view full answer...
The Curt # C13105 is indeed a fit for your Sienna.
Here's how the exhaust can rattle against the hitch, even if the correct hitch has been installed.
The exhaust system at the rear of the car is attached to the vehicle using rubber isolators and easily bendable exhaust hangers. Because of this, the actual position of the exhaust system can vary a bit from vehicle to vehicle. When the hitch is installed, its position will not vary from vehicle to vehicle. The large tolerances in the exhaust... view full answer...
The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector Item # C55418 on your 2000 Toyota Sienna with low voltage at the plug is most likely a ground issue. Follow the ground wire from the converter box to where it is grounded to the vehicle. If the self tapper was used, make sure the self tapper did not back out a little. Sometimes if the metal is not thick, the self tapper may not get tight enough and the ring terminal will be able to move. If this is the case re-locate... view full answer...
It is possible that the trailer lights have more draw than trailer wiring harness # 118304 can handle. It is rated for 2.1 amps per side for brake lights/turn signals and 4.2 amps for running lights. Your friend's truck is likely rated higher so it can handle the draw.
If this does turn out to be the problem then switching to LED lights would solve the issue.
The other option, since this is a recurring issue, is to replace the T-connector harness with a universal, powered harness that... view full answer...
To determine if the issue is on the trailer or the 2006 Toyota Sienna you will first disconnect the trailer from the van. Then use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the vehicle side wiring. First test the wires going into the converter box on harness # 118304 from the vehicle. Have someone sit in the cab and run through the light functions while testing the wires.
If there is no power on the input wires for brake lights or turn signals, then there is something wrong with the vehicle... view full answer...
Since you said that there are issues with the harnesses you purchased, and if the converter is bad on the harness you have, you will need to replace the harness with a suitable replacement. Make sure the wiring on the vehicle is operating correctly and there are no issues that would cause problems with adding a harness for your trailer.
A short in the wiring on a trailer can cause issues, so you then need to check the trailer connector and make certain it is not damaged. Check the wiring... view full answer...
Your Voyager trailer brake controller # 39510 installation should have no effect at all on the functioning of the vehicle or trailer lights since the trailer brake power is carried on its own separate circuit. The only connection the brake controller has to the vehicle lighting is at the brake light switch above the pedal; this connects to the Voyager's RED wire to tell it you are stepping on the brake. Once the Voyager knows you are stepping on the brake its internal circuitry determines... view full answer...
The most likely cause for your Sienna to blow the fuse on your +12V auxiliary trailer power feed is a short somewhere in that circuit. The short could be caused by a wire that rubs on the frame and that has damage to its insulation or even by corrosion inside the 7-way trailer socket. If the wiring is new then it is more likely to be a short from a pinched wire but if the wiring has been in place on the Sienna for some years then it may be a corrosion issue.
Trailer connectors, including... view full answer...
That metal tab should be lined up with the plastic piece sitting right next to it. I went out to our video studio and messed with a set of the Malone AirFlow2 Roof Rack # MPG216 and found that if I pressed up on the smaller clamping piece (see attached) it would help put everything in-line, but it did take some shifting around.
I also spoke with Evangeline on our video team and she said they've experienced that metal tab breaking by getting stick in a fixed position as well so that might... view full answer...
The turn signals and brake lights are on the same circuits, but the running lights are on a separate circuit. The brake lights working but not the turn signals are strange since they are on the same circuit. You will need to test the wiring harness to determine if the problem is in the converter or elsewhere.
Basically, you will use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the wires going into and coming out of the converter box. First test the wires going into the converter. If everything... view full answer...
Go To Results