The most common cause for some trailer lights to work but then to go off when another function is activated is a bad ground connection. A weak ground wire from your vehicle's 7-way to the car's frame can allow certain functions to operate until a higher-current item, such as your headlights/running lights, are turned on. This load is then too much for the weak ground connection and some or all functions will go off.
The first thing to check is the white ground wire leading from the Jeep's... view full answer...
The problem is most likely in the connectors of the trailer wiring you have installed on your 2008 Jeep Liberty. I would try removing the kit first and seeing if you can find any corrosion in the connectors and clean it out.
If not a much easier and less expensive route would be to replace the trailer wiring with the Tow Ready kit part # 118554. This will allow you to get rid of the harness you have that doesn't allow the reverse lights to work with and then replace it with a kit that... view full answer...
First thing I would do is pull off the hub and inspect the inside surface where the brake magnet rides. If it isn't completely smooth it could be grabbing the magnet and breaking it. Most likely you would have needed to replace the hub after the first time the magnet broke.
Are you sure you are using the correct orientated assembly? Brake assemblies are sold in right hand and left hand versions. The actuating arm of the assembly should be pointing towards the front of the trailer.
In... view full answer...
Most likely the problem you described is from a short on the trailer wiring. Running a powered converter is a great idea as it protects the taillight circuits of the vehicle it is installed on. But if you are seeing smoke, melted wire, and fuses blowing immediately the problem is a short somewhere on the wiring that is WAY overdrawing the circuits.
If the smoke started after plugging the harness into your trailer then the problem is the trailer wiring, if the smoke started after plugging... view full answer...
The first thing to do is disconnect the trailer from the Liberty. Then using a circuit tester, like part # PTW2993, test each pin of the 4-Way. Clip the alligator clip of the circuit tester to the exposed post, the ground wire. Check each pin with the probe. The brown wire should be running lights. Yellow should be left brake and turn, and green should have the same functions but for the right side.
If these functions all work, then the problem is on the trailer. If not, then the problem... view full answer...
The hole that gets drilled into the jounce bumper mount does not have a set measurement on where it should be located.
If shortening the line would prevent it from getting pinched when the suspension is lowered I would do that as that should be the easiest. Since you plan on shortening the line what you could do is cut a slit in the air line on the barbed fitting to remove the line and then cut the line to the length you want and reinsert the line.
Thanks for the feedback on drilling... view full answer...
A trailer brake controller like the Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 will apply the brakes when you press the manual override lever with the same force as when you press the pedal. This force will be determined by the chosen power level and boost setting. The display message .C indicates that the controller has power, senses a connected trailer but does not have the boost feature engaged. When you engage the boost another dot will appear and you will see .C. When you press the manual lever... view full answer...
I am not quite sure what wiring kit you used to install a 4-Way connector on your 2003 Jeep Liberty but it sounds like it may not have come with a converter. Your Jeep Liberty has a separate wiring system, which means the brake and turn signals are sent along separate wires. A harness with a converter is needed to combine these circuits so that they work with standard trailer wiring.
For example the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C55382, which is custom-fit for your 2003 Jeep... view full answer...
I am happy to look into it. My guess would be that since all you did was hardwire in a connector and did not install a converter, this is why the lights are not functioning correctly. Because most trailers run on a two-wire system - wherein the brake and turn signals are carried on one wire - the separate brake and turn signals from your vehicle's three-wire system need to be combined so they are compatible with the wiring system of the trailer. A converter combines the brake and turn signal... view full answer...
Since the turn signals and brake lights are carried on the same circuits if the turn signals are working the brake lights should too. If they are not then it is likely a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light.
Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds... view full answer...
The most likely cause for both of the turn signals to flash when activating just the left signal is a bad or weak ground. A weak ground connection can cause a variety of strange things to happen with the trailer tail lights.
I recommend checking that both the vehicle and trailer side connectors are free of any dirt or corrosion and simply clean as needed. Also make sure that the main ground is connected to a clean, bare metal surface on the trailer. Then check to make sure the trailer... view full answer...
There could be a couple of things going on here. I would first check the vehicle 4 way plug to make sure that power is coming from each pin properly. To do this you'll need a helper and a circuit tester like the # PTW2992 . Go through each function: brakes and both turn signals to make sure that the plug is supplying power to the trailer as it should. If you find that there is an issue with the vehicle wiring harness, you'll need to check and make sure that the wires are all in good working... view full answer...
Often when you find that you get lights that are not working at all or performing strangely, the issue is a problem with the ground wire.
Since the same problem occurs on two different trailers, I would suggest first checking the ground wire going into the converter box on the 4-Way wiring harness on your 2003 Jeep Liberty. This wire should be white, with a ring terminal attached.
Make sure that this ground wire is firmly connected to a clean metal point on the vehicle frame, and that... view full answer...
First, make sure that all connectors for Hopkins 4-pole wiring harness # HM56203 are fully-seated together at the Liberty's tail lights and that the locking clips are engaged. Next, check the white ground wire to be certain it is tightly affixed to a clean bare metal spot on the car's metalwork. Sand off primer/paint and/or clean off any other material or contaminants that might prevent metal-to-metal contact. This ground wire is most often the cause for lighting issues like yours.
You... view full answer...
If you've got 15 inch wheels on your horse trailer I believe you've likely got 12 inch brakes; you will want to confirm the capacity of your axle and the size of the hub and drums in order to make sure you get the right parts.
To replace those, I recommend using the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting - 12" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 5.2K to 7K # AKEBRK-7-SA since they're a high quality self adjusting brake assembly; after the initial adjustments you won't need to do any... view full answer...
To pinpoint where the problem is actually occurring, I recommend using a circuit tester to check for function at the 4-Way plug on your 2007 Jeep Liberty, without your trailer connected. We offer part # PTW2993, if needed.
With a helper in the cab of the vehicle and the taillights on, check to see if you get a power reading on the yellow and green wire ports when the turn signal is flipped or the brake pedal is pressed, as these would be the turn and brake signal wires. For example,... view full answer...
You can try a new controller but I don't know if that would be my first thing to try. You might see if something got bent when it hit the ground. Look under the step and see if something happened to the linkage or gear that the motor runs on. Since you the step moved slowly you might also check to see if the battery is charged as well. view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at Curt, and they agree that it sounds like the converter box on the T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness, # C56334 might be bad. You can troubleshoot the converter by using a circuit tester like # PTW2993, on the input side of the converter (wires leading from the connection to the vehicle taillight harness to the converter box). Test each wire as its function is activated- red wire = brake lamps, brown wire = running lamps, yellow wire = left turn and green wire... view full answer...
The fact that your trailer lights seem to work just fine until the vehicle headlights are switched on indicates a ground problem somewhere in the system.
The quick way to confirm a ground problem would be to disconnect your existing ground connection from the trailer and use a butt connector to temporarily connect a length of wire long enough to reach the negative battery terminal. If this temporary jumper fixes the problem (which it most likely will), you have confirmed a poor ground... view full answer...
A 4-pole wiring harness like Hopkins # 42475 combines the stop and turn light signals from the Liberty onto one wire for each side of the trailer. The green wire carries passenger side brake and turn signals and the yellow carries the same two signals for the driver side of the trailer.
If you have a left brake light signal but you are finding that you do not have a left turn signal this could mean that one of the pins inside the vehicle or harness connectors is not making proper contact... view full answer...
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