The early integrated brake controllers, like on your 2006 model, were buggy and had a lot of problems. Most of our customers end up disconnecting them and installing a traditional brake controller. This will require a computer re-flash at your dealership. If not, the truck computer will still look for the factory brake controller and you will have a check engine light. It is not the 7-Way on your truck. If the 7-Way was the problem, you would not get voltage at the 5:00 pin when you manually... view full answer...
It should have been hooked up and fully functional from the factory. Some times there is a wire that will need to connected, but that is only on vehicles that do not have the 7-Way from the factory, but are pre-wired for them.
Which pin are you checking on the 7-Way? As you face the 7-Way on the vehicle, it should be the pin at the 1:00 position. The center contact is for reverse lights. Also, is the Expedition on or off when you are testing the wiring? I have added a link to a wiring... view full answer...
The fuse and relay is located in the power distribution box located under the hood on the inside of the drivers side fender close to the firewall. Your owners manual should be able to give you the specific fuse location. view full answer...
As long as you have a wiring harness like the Redarc Plug-and-Play Wiring Harness for Tow-Pro Trailer Brake Controllers # 331-TPH-007, I recommend making sure that all of the pins on your receiving connector are all connecting with the controller itself. Sometimes the pins in the harness can get damaged or bent to the point where they need to be replaced.
The next thing to check is the fuse that powers the brake controller. Since your 2013 Ford F-150 has a factory connector under the... view full answer...
First thing you should do at this point is test the 4-way of the wiring harness with a circuit tester part # PTW2993 for voltage on all of the right pins when the taillight signals are being applied. Just like in the video I attached.
If the voltage checks out there but the trailer lights still don't function right then the problem is on the trailer wiring. That would mean that problem is either due to a ground issue or a short issue.
Make sure that the trailer side connector are clean... view full answer...
I have included a review/installation video below where the Curt TruTrack Weight Distribution System # C17500 was installed on a similar truck. You can see when he first set up the hitch it sagged a lot like you are experiencing. He then readjusted the hitch and was able to get it within the desired range. One thing that will help if you are having trouble installing the bars with the additional tension would be to use the power tongue jack to raise the trailer a little higher. Remember... view full answer...
If you removed a wheelchair lift and then your Atwood Air Command Rooftop RV Air Conditioner w/ Heat Pump - 15,000 Btu - Ducted - White Item # AT15028-22 stopped working I'd say it was either wired into the lift somehow or the wire running from it was somehow damaged during removal of the lift wiring. I would start by tracing the wiring from the unit to and looking for and bends, damage, or lose connections. You can also rerun the wiring from the unit to a dedicated 20amp circuit using... view full answer...
Since the trailer brake port on your 2021 Jayco built on the Ford E-450 Cutaway does not have any power, causing your Curt Spectrum Trailer Brake Controller # C51170 to not work I recommend double checking that fuse 41 is installed. It is a 30 amp fuse that powers the trailer brake controller, and is located in the engine compartment fuse box. Since your motorhome did not come with a factory integrated controller it is possible the fuse was left out.
I included a video of the # C51170... view full answer...
The red indicator light you have on your brake controller should start out dim and when brakes are applied or if the manual control is used and increase in brightness as you increase the output.
It sounds like your controller is working properly when the trailer is not hooked up but is acting opposite of how it is supposed to work when you hook the trailer to your vehicle.
I would use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993, and make sure all the wiring connections are receiving current... view full answer...
My suspicion is that you have a poor ground connection somewhere on your trailer. The fact that everything works fine until the running lights are turned on is the dead giveaway. When the tail lights are turned on, the trailer lighting is drawing maximum amperage through the system. If there is a ground problem, this is when it will manifest itself.
There are several places to look for a poor ground connection. Lets start with the trailer connector on the vehicle. Trace the white wire... view full answer...
If it runs when you push the retract switch then it likely is not the switch though it would not hurt to clean the contacts on the inside. It sounds like the jack has been over extended at some point which can damage the threads on the nut and/or screw on the inside. Try raising the jack about half way and then retracting it. If it works fine then that is probably the issue.
If the jack continues to have problems then there may be a problem with the motor/gears. Either way, damaged threads,... view full answer...
Some Ford trucks that do not have the factory tow package can still have dummy fuse locations for the trailering functions. These fuse receptacles may not be live on such trucks. You can check with your local Ford dealer using your VIN to see exactly what equipment Ford installed in the truck at the factory.
You can also still install a 4-pole using kit # 18252. This will splice into your tail light wiring using the included fasteners and the included circuit tester allows you to identify... view full answer...
N.C. or N.C both would indicate the same thing on the Tekonsha Primus IQ part # TK90160 that you referenced. Basically it means that the controller has power and is ready to be used but does not sense a trailer connection. If you have a trailer connected I would recommend cleaning the pins of the trailer connectors with sandpaper to improve/fix the connection. view full answer...
The first thing you need to do is check the appropriate fuses on your vehicle for a blown fuse on your 2020 Ford F-350 super duty. If everything looks good with the fuses, I recommend checking for shorts or fraying in the 12v wiring anywhere from the plug to where the harness connects to the front of the vehicle. This can be done at different points of the wiring with a circuit tester # PTW2993. It is also important to check and make sure the ground wires on your harness are mounted to... view full answer...
That sounds correct to me. When you cut off the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C56327 converter box, it tried to pull all the power for the trailer circuits off the vehicle harness on your 2015 Ford Transit T250. It hopefully only damaged the fuses and not parts of the vehicle harness. Be sure to check the power wire that ran to the converter and see if the fuse was damaged or any of the harness is damaged as that would explain why it was not working when you recently tried to... view full answer...
In 7-way RV wiring the right stop light and right turn light signals are combined and carried on one circuit. If you refer to the linked photo of a 7-way socket you can see which pin within the 7-way handles these signals; it is the pin at the 3:00 position as you look at the socket on the truck.
Since you do not have the trailer handy for testing if you have a voltmeter like # PT89ZR or a circuit tester like # PTW2993 you can check the truck wiring. If you check out the linked video you... view full answer...
I suppose anything is possible on a new install, but it's more likely that you're just experiencing some common noises that occur when towing a 5th wheel- called "chucking".
Sometimes when towing a 5th wheel there's a little bit of play between the kingpin of the trailer and the jaws of the hitch; the B&W Companion # BWRVK3400-5W usually does a really nice job of limiting the play because of the thicker jaws fitting the kingpin better than some other hitches but it's normal and tough to... view full answer...
It sounds like the Curt Pop-In Ball part # C60601 has become stuck in the factory gooseneck hitch on your 2014 Ford F-350. If that is the case then the first thing you are going to want to do is spay copious amounts of lube between the collar and hitch ball, around where you think the retention balls would be. Then let this sit for an hour or so or overnight if you can. Then you till want to take a rubber mallet and tap the hitch ball while lifting the release latch to see if you can get... view full answer...
The "Trailer Disconnected" error message on the dash with a factory brake controller is usually related to an issue with the blue brake output wire that runs from the brake controller to the 7-Way connector. The fact that the issue remains constant with multiple trailers indicates a problem on the truck side.
You have already done a great job of inspecting and cleaning both the truck and trailer side 7-Way so next you will want to try and inspect the blue wire coming from the back of... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Tekonsha and they said the LCD display on the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller part # 90195 is part of the limited lifetime warranty. Therefore, if you have an issue with the screen bleeding in from the sides then you would be covered so long as this was not attributed to a user error (ie. water damage). In regards to warranty coverage, this could vary depending on who you purchased the unit from. If you purchased it from us then we would take care of... view full answer...
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