I have listed for you the trailer light fuse locations on a 2014 Ford F-250 below. The trailer light fuses will all be located in the engine bay fuse block, not the interior fuse block.
22 - 30A - Trailer Tow Electric Brake
26 - -30A - Trailer Tow Park Lamps
70 - 10A - Trailer Tow Backup Lamp
90 - 25A - Trailer Tow Battery Charge
100- 25A - Trailer Tow Turn Signals
If all of these fuses check out then you will want to test the pins inside vehicle side trailer connector. If you don't... view full answer...
It does take a few good and hard stops at full power (12 volts) in order to set the braking adjustment on a set of self-adjusting braking assemblies. That said, I would first make sure you are getting a full 12 volts out of your brake controller first. In order to do this you will need to turn the power settings up to max, usually with a knob or buttons on the exterior of the unit. Once you have power at the max settings have a friend apply the manual override which is usually a bar or... view full answer...
The P.L. code on your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 means there is a power interruption while the brake pedal is being depressed. This actually happens fairly often and all you need to do is check your ground connections and power supply wire.
You will want to make sure the ground is connected to bare, unpainted metal, but a quick and easy way to test is to connect the ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If this fixes the issue, it's definitely the ground connection... view full answer...
The GloLight Thinline LED Trailer Tail Light # STL179RB and the Pacer Performance 3rd Brake Light Logic Module # PP20-702 is all that is needed because you have LED brake lights. The load resistors are not needed for your application. They are only necessary when going from incandescent lights to LED because LED lights require so much less power that there still needs to be that power draw for the system.
You may simply need to remove the resistors to have the third brake light function... view full answer...
Can you tell me which brake controller you are using? Have you tested the brake controller? We have an that demonstrates how to test a brake controller that I will provide a link to below. By following the testing procedures outlined in the video, you can determine if the controller is getting power, is receieving input from the brake switch, and is putting out the necessary voltage to actuate the trailer brakes. view full answer...
If the arm of your # RP61412 Sidewinder is at an angle relative to the head of your fifth wheel hitch the issue is the wedge of the Sidewinder that is supposed to be locking the arm to the hitch head is not doing it's job. I would not recommend you tow anymore until you address this issue. You could be using the wrong wedge for your hitch or it needs to be orientated properly.
Check out the installation instructions I attached, around page 7 there are instructions on wedge activation.
I... view full answer...
In the tow package wiring bundle, the red or orange wire carries 12 volts from the battery to the trailer. Many use it to keep a maintenance charge on a trailer mounted battery. The blue wire carries the output from a brake controller. This assumes everything is installed correctly.
You can test this by using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 on the blue wire that exits the rear of the controller. You should see voltage on that wire with the manual brake switch on the controller activated.... view full answer...
The Hydrastar actuator # HBA-10 should be grounded to both the trailer frame and through the trailer connector. Make sure the grounds are clean and free of corrosion.
Since your actuator is not cycling, this could mean that there is an electrical problem or a malfunction with the motor, or even a problem with the brake controller. I have included a picture of how the unit should be wired up. Any corrosion could be a cause of the problem. Make sure that the trailer and vehicle connectors... view full answer...
There are many reasons why a trailer brake controller could fail to operate. Since I do not know anything about your controller or its installation, I can give you some general guidance.
If the controller does not light up (if it appears not to have power) then start by testing the black wire that delivers 12V power to the unit. Use a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If you do not get a signal on the black wire, then check your fuse/circuit breaker. You should have 12V power on that black... view full answer...
Somewhere in the system you have a hot side and a neutral line reversed. My suggestion is to take it back to the person you paid to install. But if you want to troubleshoot the installation of your Go Power Industrial Pure Sine Wave Inverter, # 34275013 yourself; start at the beginning of the circuit on your installation checking polarity at each connection point to discover where the inverted wiring issue is.
You do not state how you identified that there is a reverse polarity issue... view full answer...
A lot of Ford trucks use fuses and relays for the tow package wiring. Use the owners manual to locate all of the relays and fuses associated with the tow package wiring. Also, there can be tow package fuses in both the power distribution box under the hood as well as in the in-cab fuse panel.
Checking fuses is easy but checking relays can be more difficult. the easiest way to test a relay is to use a known good relay in place of a potential bad one. view full answer...
If your 2011 Ford F-250 has Firestone Ride-Rite system # F2550 then take a look at the instructions and the video I have linked. This should be able to tell you if your system was installed incorrectly or not.
The heat shield will be used on this system on the exhaust side only and it is supposed to be placed between the upper bracket and the top of the Firestone spring. It sounds like it might be a little out of position. In some cases you can bend or trim a heat shield without having... view full answer...
What may be occurring is that the brake controller is sending back a small amount of current to check if the trailer is connected. This is not enough power to operate the brakes but may cause the noise you are hearing. What I recommend doing is checking the wiring to be on the safe side.
First make sure that the red wire connection from the back of the brake controller is attached to the brake switch wire correctly. Then, with the trailer plugged in, apply the truck brakes and check the... view full answer...
The first thing you are going to want to test is the brake controller. Sever the brake output wire behind the back of the controller a few inches. Then use a circuit tester or multimeter like # PT89ZR to test the end coming out of the controller. If the controller output setting is set to the highest level, the tester should show approximately 12 volts.
If it does, reconnect the wire. If it does not continue testing to see if the output fluctuates or changes at all. If it does change or... view full answer...
The PL error code on the P2 # 90885 and Prodigy 90185, indicates that the power was interrupted while the brake pedal was pressed.
This means that when you apply the brakes the voltage is not getting back to the trailer brakes.
This can occur for a number of reasons. First check the brake controller wiring and all of its connections to the vehicle. A bad splice or corrosion could cause this error. Then check the wiring going back to the trailer connector for any corrosion or breaks in... view full answer...
On your 2005 Ford F-250 you'll want to start by testing the 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock pins on the truck side connector with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. Clean the pins free of any corrosion. if you're not getting signal there, use the tester and test the wires coming out of the back of the 7-way along the harness. Keep an eye out for any kinked or damaged places on the wiring that could be causing the issue. If you're still not getting anything, then you'll want to check for a blown... view full answer...
If your breakaway battery is dead, your brakes should operate while connected to your vehicle's 7-way trailer connector. If your brakes are not operating, then it sounds like you might have a short in the brake wiring of the trailer.
Battery Breakaways Kits, like # 20099, add extra wire connections by cutting into the existing electric brake wiring of the trailer. Sometimes, when installed these connections may not have been properly grounded or may have come loose over a period of trailer... view full answer...
Since you have the Hopkins Insight Brake Controller, I confirmed with Hopkins that the red light staying on is completely normal. I also confirmed with Hopkins that the red light will not drain your 2010 Ford F-250's battery to the point where you will need to replace it. view full answer...
The Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller part # 90885 has a built in troubleshooting function that will display a set of codes that represent various faults in the controller. According to the owner's manual for this controller, the "E.r" fault code represents that there is an internal problem within the brake controller causing it to become inoperable. It is recommended that you return the brake controller to the manufacturer for service.
If you decide to purchase a new brake... view full answer...
According to DeeZee, the tailgate on your 2008 King Ranch is heavier by a few pounds than the tailgate of the 2003 F250 shown in the video. The reason your tailgate drops before the assist grabs it is this weight difference, it doesn't indicate a problem or defect with the tailgate assist itself. view full answer...
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