I have a solution for you, so never fear-we've actually seen this before on the newer Ford trucks, which will have the same lamp out detection system. If you are getting an error code on your 2020 Ford Explorer when using the Ford LED Lighted Trailer Hitch Cover # CR-007F it's most likely reacting to the lower amp draw from the LED light and the computer is sensing that a lamp might potentially be burnt out, but it also could just be corrosion on the 4way.
I would start by making sure... view full answer...
I attached a picture of how bright the Optronics LED RV Interior Light # RVILL34 should be. As dim as your are in the picture you submitted makes me think that you either have a bad ground on your assembly or the power source you are using isn't 12 volts. Is it possible your trailer is 6 volts? I kind of doubt it is since you said it was made in 2007.
Use a volt meter # PT89ZR to test the power wire you are using to verify that you are getting full 12 volts at the lights.
You could even... view full answer...
From the research I did I recommend checking the fuse panel inside of your engine bay on your 2003 Ford Explorer. Using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 check fuse number 13 which is a 40amp fuse and verify that there is power on both sides of the fuse.
If there is power to the fuse I would double check the connection between the factory harness and your trailer brake controller. Focus on the black power wire, and make sure that it is securely plugged in, that it isn't loose in the connector,... view full answer...
If you aren't showing output while the vehicle is in motion, that WOULD indicate a problem. Typically, the controller gets the brake signal from the 3rd brake lamp, sometimes also referred to as the CHMSL circuit. If the brake switch is bad or the 3rd brake lamp isn't operating, then there is a problem somewhere in the 3rd brake lamp circuit. You can test this using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. Probe the red wire exiting the rear of the controller. You should show voltage on that wire... view full answer...
If you are using a Blazer trailer light kit C6424 and both turn signals flash at the same time when you activate either one, then this usually indicates a ground problem on the vehicle's wiring harness. A weak ground can cause all sorts of odd behavior from trailer lights. An example of a wiring harness for your Explorer is part # 118345
Check that your Explorer wiring harness ground wire ring terminal is firmly attached to a clean bare metal surface free of paint, primer, grease and dirt.... view full answer...
It's tough to pinpoint an exact leak in your radiator, but it could be the fluid return line. If anything, it may be leaking in the radiator. The factory cooler is inside the radiator.
Transmission coolers such as # D13503 will not be inside a radiator. They attach in-line with the transmission fluid return line.
The usual spot a supplemental transmission cooler is mounted to is in front of the AC condenser or at least in between the air conditioning condenser and the radiator itself.... view full answer...
The Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540 you installed in your 2016 Ford Explorer without the factory Tow Package is compatible with trailers that have incandescent or LED lights so that will not cause any issues.
On some Explorers there are two connectors, a grey one and black one. When you installed the # 118540 did you notice if there was more than on connector? If there was you will need to connect into the black connector. Installing the connector in the wrong factory connector... view full answer...
First, thank you for your many prior purchases from etrailer.
I reviewed the items you ordered and note you did not replace your hub/drums. If the existing hubs are badly worn they may not allow the new brakes to grab as much as they could. The hub will be cast with a maximum hub bore diameter after which it is considered worn out. If the drums were recently resurfaced they may now be too large. Also, never-adjust brakes DO require some initial manual adjustment. The self-adjusting feature... view full answer...
Your trailer's disc brakes will certainly warm up with use but the type of dragging and heat you're describing is definitely not normal. When this type of problem occurs it's typically the result of a bad brake caliper on one or more of the assemblies.
I recommend removing the caliper and rotor and taking the pads out from the caliper for inspection. If you find they are in need of replacement I will be happy to make a specific recommendation if you can tell me the brand and weight capacity... view full answer...
Due to age of your Ford Explorer I was not able to pull up an online copy of your owners manual to find the fuse/relay locations for the trailer wiring. If you check yours and find the fuse box section it would be listed there.
Also it's very possible your trailer wiring just has some corrosion on the pins which is causing the circuit to not be active. You can clean them with some sandpaper and that most likely will take care of the problem. I attached a help article on trailer wiring... view full answer...
Though we will not have factory wiring diagrams, I am pretty sure I know what is going on and this should be a quick and easy fix. In the passenger compartment fuse box of your 2001 Ford Explorer, there should be a 15A in position 30. This port will handle the park lamp / trailer tow relay and should be all you need to get everything up and running properly.
However, in the off chance this does not get you power to the running lamps, let me know and we can try a few other things. view full answer...
Try improving the connection of the main ground wire of the trailer wiring harness. Make sure it is attached to a clean metal surface. Or you can run all of the trailer wires back to the main ground. This is actually the ideal solution. But you can also check the current grounds for the lights to make sure they are making a solid connection to a clean metal surface.
What you described is the classic insufficient ground scenario so finding a way to improve the grounds will fix the problem. view full answer...
I wasn't able to find your order number so I'm not sure what harness you purchased from us specifically for your 2015 Ford Explorer, but if it was the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540, and you didn't have the two connectors, you would only need to plug it in to the connector shown in the accompanying photo I added. This is from the linked video install of this harness on a 2015 Explorer. If you did this and the connectors matched up but you still don't have power there are a number... view full answer...
If there is no noise from the contact between the exhaust hanger and the hitch then you don't have to do anything. If there is noise or you just want some more space then there are some things you can do to create more space.
I have included a link to a help article that covers the different methods you could employ. If all else fails then a muffler shop would be able to take care of the issue pretty easily since they have the tools and the know-how to work on exhaust systems.
I doubt... view full answer...
Running your own 12V power wire for the 7-Way on your 2021 Ford Explorer would give it the constant 12V power that the Curt Echo # C51180 needs, but I'm pretty sure we can remedy this problem without you having to splice into the wiring on your new vehicle.
It sounds like your Explorer has the same wiring setup as the new Ford pickups (which makes sense) where the vehicle won't sent power back to the 7-Way until it senses a load. Since the Echo needs power to pair to your phone you will... view full answer...
Thank you for your purchase from etrailer for your 2017 Ford Explorer of the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118540.
The only reason I can think of why this may have happened is if you have plugged the harness into the wrong plug . On some models there is both a black and a gray factory connector, and you need to make sure you plugged it into the black connector.
I have added a link below to a video install on a '17 Explorer for you as well. view full answer...
The Curt Echo Wireless Brake Controller # C51180 has a setting in the app that will prevent the brakes from being applied when the hazard lights are flashing. If you disable the hazard light braking function in the app and it continues to activate then you could have some debris on the either the 7-way cable or port that's allowing the electrical signal to bleed over to the other pin and just needs to be cleaned off. view full answer...
If the Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring, # 118345, was working on your 1997 Ford Explorer but then suddenly stopped working, the first thing I would check is the fuse that came with the converter. The power wire should be connected to the vehicle battery via the fuse and fuse holder. If you find that fuse is blown you will need to replace it.
However, if there was a short on the trailer wiring, trailer side, or corrosion in the connectors on either side, it could blow the fuse again.
Loss... view full answer...
Your most likely culprit would be the ground connection on the horse trailer. Make sure that the grounding point on the trailer is securely fastened, and is free of corrosion.
When this trailer is being used on the Suburban, it is probably getting a ground connection through the trailer ball. The boat trailer will work fine with the Explorer because it most likely uses a continuous ground circuit instead of using the trailer frame as a portion of the ground circuit.
Trying different... view full answer...
The P2 # 90885 has not been around for 15 years. You might have the original Prodigy # 90185. The sure way to know is the display. If the display is blue, its a P2. If the display is red, it is a Prodigy.
There are a lot of moving parts in electric drum brakes. They could get stuck if the return springs are bound up or corroded or if something needs some lubrication.
Nine times out of ten, it is a brake issue. But it could be electrical further back than the brake controller. The first... view full answer...
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